No Start?

Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA TACOMA
  • 2.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 260,000 MILES
Truck listed above has a2.7L 3RZ. Have 48 PSI at fuel delivery pipe when cranking, Injectors are clicking when cranking according to inspection with long screwdriver to ear, spark and compression seem fine because engine runs for a few seconds when shooting starting fluid into air intake. Just finished a valve job and a thorough cleaning of just about every nook and cranny. Engine was running fine before work but had oil leaking from the oil pump and who else knows where. Didn't mess with crankshaft and pistons but replaced just about every gasket and inspected everything I could while torn down. Installed new oil pump, water pump, harmonic balancer, two coolant temp sensors, EGR valve, spark plugs, plug wires, and injectors. Replaced all vacuum hoses. Thoroughly cleaned throttle body and intake plenum all vacuum valves and sensors and their connections. Crankshaft position sensor test within ohms specs. Cleaned MAF sensor which does fluctuate voltage with air blown through venturi. Distributor coil test within ohms specs. Waiting on OBD2 scanner from Amazon to check error codes. Was certain I got timing chain gears set correctly but now I am second guessing myself. Could timing be off even though engine runs with starting fluid? Could injectors not be firing even though clicking or maybe just not opening enough to pass fuel? I am baffled. What do you think could be my problem?
Tuesday, December 6th, 2022 AT 12:44 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,068 POSTS
Hi,

The idea that you hear the injectors, but it only runs on starting fluid leads me to think there could be a timing issue. However, I would think if it ran on starting fluid, it would do the same on gas.

Here is what I need you to do:

At each injector, there will be a black wire with a red tracer. With the key in the run position, each injector should have 12v at that wire. Confirm that is the case.

If there is, we need to check for a ground path. Take a test lamp and connector the alligator clip side to the battery positive. Probe the other wire (other than the black/red) with the test light and have a helper crank the engine. The test light should flash.

See pic below. Try this and let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, December 6th, 2022 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Hi Joe,

I got my scanner early this morning and discovered P0115 and that a coolant temperature sensor circuit was open. Seems I broke the connector when cleaning or reconnecting it. Will change it soon but just reinstalled it for now and have a connection. Great! But not so great :( Engine does start up but only runs for 3 seconds or so. What the heck! Any thoughts? I am investigating now and will get back to you. Thanks
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Still stumped here Joe. Not throwing any error codes. I've been searching forums and thought maybe I installed my distributor off by a tooth, but that seems to be fine. Tried running with MAF unplugged, but no good. Tested and cleaned IAC but still no luck. Like I said it runs for 3 seconds or so pretty smoothly then suddenly shuts down like maybe fuel pressure just disappears. Can crank it again right away and does the same thing. I'll borrow fuel pressure tester again from Orielly's tomorrow and monitor while trying to start.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,068 POSTS
Hi,

If the ECT was disconnected, that could have caused the issue because the temperature signal would have changed the signal to the ECM.

If it went extreme one way or the other, the air/fuel ratio would have been way off.

Since you reconnected it, what is the temperature signal it is sending?

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Hey Joe, ECT is reading 88F. Also, I'm investigating TPS. Ohm's readings indicate it may be faulty. I'll test further tomorrow. And now I have a DTC of P0120 (throttle pedal position sensor circuit malfunction) which hasn't shown up till now. Will start fresh tomorrow. Wish me luck.
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,068 POSTS
Hi,

Thank you for the update, and certainly, Good Luck. LOL

Take care and let me know what I can do to help.

Joe
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Wednesday, December 7th, 2022 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Hey Joe,

At a standstill here. TPS seems fine. It gives correct readings at ECM and voltages fluctuate in correct percentages on live scanner reading. Still runs for a few seconds then dies. Fuel pressure hold ups throughout cranking and after at a little above 40 PSI which is within manual specs of 38-44. Still not throwing and new codes. Gotta be spark. I guess. What else should I look at?
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Friday, December 9th, 2022 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,068 POSTS
Hi,

I'm starting to question if it is the crankshaft position sensor. Do me a favor. Take a look through this link and let me know if you feel anything mirrors what you are experiencing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Interestingly, this sensor can fail and not set a code. I believe you have a live data scan tool. Connect it and watch the engine RPMs. See if the RPM signal drops out right before it stalls.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, December 9th, 2022 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
GPAOLO
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Hi Joe,

RPM signal seems to be simultaneous with shut down, but I've ordered a new CPS anyway. I do not want to become just a part changer but running out of ideas. Also going to replace the fuel pressure regulator and TPS. I'll keep you updated. Thanks
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Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,068 POSTS
Hi,

Thank you for the update. It could be the crankshaft position sensor. I will wait to hear your findings.

Let me know.

Take care,

joe
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Tuesday, December 13th, 2022 AT 7:47 PM

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