When attempting to crank the truck the lights on dash cluster stop working

That's the classic symptom of loose or dirty battery cable connections. Also follow the smaller positive battery wire to the under-hood fuse box and be sure that connection is clean and tight. Follow the smaller negative battery wire to the body and be sure that connection is tight and not rusty.

This article will explain it better:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

The high system voltage is another indication the battery is not in the circuit, meaning there's a broken connection. The battery is the key component in helping the voltage regulator do its job.

Did you check the connections on the under-hood fuse box?

Which new terminals are you referring to? If you replaced the cable clamps right at the battery posts, with universal clamps that you bolt the cables to, those are not meant for a permanent repair. They cause way too much trouble with loose and corroded cables under those straps. They're meant to be temporary repairs until the cable assembly can be replaced.

If all the connections look good, the next step is to get the problem to occur so we can look for the defect. Turn the head light switch on so current is trying to flow. That will also provide a visual indication as to when you do something that affects the bad connection.

Use a test light and check at the four places pointed out by the arrows in the first drawing. You should find full battery voltage on all four points. Let me know what you find there.

Here's a guide to using a test light if you need it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Hold on. It spins over but it doesn't crank? Those are the same thing. Cranking but not running is not the original problem you listed. Does that mean we made progress but we have a different problem now, or am I trying to diagnose the wrong symptom?

If the starter cranks the engine, but it didn't do that before you worked on the battery cables, try again while holding the accelerator pedal down 1/4". (More is not better. 1/4" is plenty). If the engine runs, but stalls when you release the accelerator pedal, that's an easy fix. If the engine only runs for about two seconds, then stalls, it is anti-theft mode from the battery being disconnected. Use the key fob or a key in the door lock to unlock the doors. That will get it out of theft mode.

If the engine still doesn't run, start by checking for spark while a helper cranks the engine. This article might be of help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

but skip down to step 21. Just need to know if spark is occurring at the end of a spark plug wire.

Let me know what happens when you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4".

You can read the diagnostic fault codes yourself by cycling the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine. Leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p0300

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

Now that the engine is running, most of the sensor data and fuel trim numbers will start to be rebuilt as you drive without you even noticing, except for "minimum throttle". That takes a special set of conditions to be relearned. Until you do that, idle speed will be too low. The engine may not start, or if it does, it will tend to stall at stop signs. To meet those conditions, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.