No Electrical

Replaced IP module still no power Battery reversed poles shorted. Battery tested 13. 4 volts. How do I test the sockets and or power leaving IPModule Did not notice any damaged wires or smells.

There is no power leaving I P module even though there is power at the sockets where fuses and relays plug in

My wife just purchased this van and drove it 2,000 miles home without any problems. I drove it about a week locally without issue. My wife went to drive it but heater blower wouldn't work so she parked it and the next day I went to drive it, no heater blower, went to restart and won't crank over. I checked and 3 fuses were blown, replaced fuses and ignition switch, tried to start, starter engaged for about 1/2 second and then nothing. Lights radio and random accessories stayed on, tried moving gear shift to neutral, sometimes indicator lights would work sometimes not, sometimes the radio clock stays on sometimes not, car would still not turn over. Replaced the grounding strap on the motor mount, heater blower started working but accessories stayed on, sometimes windows will work, just tried to get car out of park and can't. I am at a loss where to start, I have looked at wire harnesses but don't see any obvious burns. Any ideas would be appreciated.

So I was able to get the car to turn over (the spade connector on the starter was loose) but as soon as it fires it dies, not like its starving for fuel but seems like the run wire is disconnected, the accessories still come on immediately when connected to the battery, does this still sound like the BCM? Is there any way to test as this part is about 400. Thanks for the help.

After checking the relays and replacing another fuse, when I connected the battery I smelled a burnt wire smell, turns out there is a major wire harness in between the wheel well and the firewall. Either something went through the plastic shroud in the wheel well or the burnt wire harness made a hole, either way about 1/2 the wires had melted together, after tracing all of them and soldering and heat shrinking them back together, when I connected the battery the car started right up and no problems since. Thanks for the help, all I can say is I feel very fortunate not to have had a car fire.

Bought the van listed above a couple weeks ago and it was being used for a short 15 mile round trip commute. After a couple weeks the vehicle went into limp mode with transmission solenoid pack codes. I put in a new solenoid pack and while I had in the garage did some checking on various running lights that were out, found a blown fuse and dead bulb and got most of the lights going. I say this to give the information I was doing some minor stuff with the electrical system. After the replacement I took a test drive and everything was fine, it shifted as it should, no check engine light. Great, I came back, parked it and a couple minutes later went to start it again and heard a click kind of like a dead battery sound when you try to start, then everything went dead. No electrical function at all, no horn, flashers, dash lights, nothing. The battery shows proper voltage and is only a couple weeks old. Someone suggested a fusible link but I can't find it and some searching online revealed some disagreement as to whether the vehicle has one. Any suggestions, advice, or location of the fusible link if this vehicle does indeed have one?

Just an update: I found the green 10 gauge wire labeled Fuse Link, I'm not sure how I missed it since it is right there coming off the fuse box next to the battery. It doesn't feel blown, tested and it shows continuity and wiggling it around didn't give a moment of power so I believe this is not the issue. I'm a bit stumped what to look at next. There was no erratic behavior with the anything electrical before this, went from normal to dead with a turn of the key.

Never mind, problem solved. I doubt this will help anyone else because it was such a random thing. The terminal connectors to the battery looked very new and I noticed when I was connecting the negative terminal there weren't any sparks so I started trying to make sure there was voltage from positive to the chassis ground. There wasn't, so I took the terminal off the vehicle and ground the coating off off where the connectors touched it, put it back on and problem solved. I'll have to admit if I hadn't figured that out I might have ended up chasing this for quite awhile and replacing some things that didn't need replaced. I don't know how it had connectivity for several weeks and randomly lost it during a short drive, but it did. Again, I don't know if this will help anyone out but if you are chasing a similar problem, check your terminals. I am happy this fixed it, just a bit annoyed I spent a day chasing something that took 5 minutes to fix.

Thanks Steve. I hadn't seen your answer before I figured it out but it would have solved it instantly for me. I'm in the Northwest and I don't see much corrosion on this van that spent it's whole life up here, we don't get salt on the roads. But I will keep this mind as a week point if it acts up again. And I'll have to have a little chat with my friend who owns an auto repair shop who was pretty insistent it was the fusible link. I'll keep your site in mind if I have any future issues, although fingers crossed this will behave for awhile.

Thanks again. Nice to have someone on the internet know what they are talking about.