Will not recognize my key or let my scanner communicate with the computer?

Tiny
HATCHERGUY
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Bought new computer, resolved nothing. Replaced crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor, resolved nothing. The vehicle listed above is a Limited model.
Wednesday, April 26th, 2023 AT 10:30 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
What was the original issue with the prompter replacing the ECM and the sensors? Unless you can access the ECM, you cannot program in the key to function so that is a different issue at the moment. If you put the original unit back in, what does it do? What scan tool are you using? Have you checked the powers and grounds at the DLC? Using a test light connected to ground you should have power at pin 16 which is fed from fuse 17. Then connect the test light to power and pins 4&5 should be grounds. If those are okay, but the scan tool still will not connect, try a different tool, if there is still nothing you will need to check the powers and grounds to the ECM. The attached show which are the 12 volts in, 5 volts out (check those because a bad sensor could short them and cause the ECM to shut down) and grounds.
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Wednesday, April 26th, 2023 AT 4:27 PM
Tiny
HATCHERGUY
  • MEMBER
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I will make certain that I have checked everything you have described, but I know my buddy and I have already done most of it. The very first problem that started all of this was that I was sitting at idle when the jeep suddenly shut off and then would only start for a second and then shut off. I tried multiple fixes and finally had it towed. Eventually I came to find that the fuel pump was not getting power which resulted in me changing the fuel pump yet still having no power. At this point I checked the voltage at the pump and realized I had nothing coming through on the positive wire. So, I ran a new wire to an external relay that I connected to the original relay. This worked and I finally had my jeep back on the road. I should mention that during this time my key had started not to turn the ignition at all until after multiple attempts and so I got used to hitting the end of the key with my knuckles or whatever was lying around, and this worked. Now I get about 2 weeks of some serious driving in and when coming around a tight curve it stalled out on me again and would only start for a second and then eventually not at all and hasn't started since. The big difference this time is that the key light is on telling me it's not recognizing my key and my scanner can no longer communicate with the computer. I have tried various things that I have found online all the way up to the point of basically hot wiring the fuel pump and injectors but still I have no spark. So, I finally caved and ordered a pre flashed computer only to find that it helped in no way whatsoever. At this point I'm leaning towards the skim module not knowing if that would prevent me from communicating with the computer or not. I read that the crankshaft position sensor was known for that, so I replaced it and went ahead and did the camshaft sensor while I was at it, again, no change. So, I could use some advice. We have already checked for power at the OBD plug and it is there, so I'm not sure what to do next.
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Wednesday, April 26th, 2023 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
Yeah, it sounds like SKIM or key failure as that would also account for the start, run a couple seconds and shut off. Try a second key if you have one. If no luck get a replacement module if you have access to a dealer level scan tool as you will need to initialize the SKIS then get it to recognize the new SKIM module. Without that it won't allow anything to work. If your keys are very worn or the cylinder is, you should be able to get a better one and have it pinned to match your current keys. Then have a new key made and enter them all in the SKIS so you have a spare or two.
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Wednesday, April 26th, 2023 AT 5:27 PM

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