heater is not working? Im cold!

Hi.

It could be an actuator for the blend air door or there have been a few issues with the door being stuck or the shaft that attaches to the actuator is broken.

However, you asked for an approximate cost. According to my manual, the air temperature actuator shows 0.4 hours to replace. So, it's a little more than a half hour labor. The part shouldn't be much more than $40.00.

If you want to replace it yourself, and you can, first here is a link to check out that shows how in general one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The two attached pics correlate with these directions.

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2006 Chevy Truck Equinox AWD V6-3.4L VIN F
Air Temperature Actuator
Vehicle Heating and Air Conditioning Air Door Actuator / Motor Service and Repair Procedures Air Temperature Actuator
AIR TEMPERATURE ACTUATOR
AIR TEMPERATURE ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL PROCEDURE


pic 1

1. Remove the instrument panel compartment.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the air temperature actuator.
3. Remove the air temperature actuator screws from the HVAC module.
4. Remove the air temperature actuator from the HVAC module.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE


pic 2

1. Align the air temperature actuator with the door shaft and rotate into position.
2. Install the air temperature actuator screws to the HVAC module.

Tighten the screws to 1.5 N.m (13 lb in).

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice.

3. Connect the electrical connector to the air temperature actuator.
4. Calibrate the actuators by simultaneously pushing the A/C and RECIRC buttons on the HVAC control module three times each, within two seconds of initial push.
- The A/C and RECIRC button LED's will flash while this calibration is taking place.
- The calibration will take anywhere between 10 to 30 seconds depending on battery voltage.
- The LEDs will quit flashing when the calibration is complete.

IMPORTANT: Any time an actuator or the HVAC control module is replaced, the HVAC control module must be calibrated to ensure proper air distribution.

5. Cycle the ignition and verify proper operation.
6. Install the instrument panel compartment.

_______________________________

What I would suggest is to remove the actuator and see if it moves when you change temperature from cold to hot and back. If it does, the actuator is good. At that point, we will need to see what has failed in the heater box.

Please feel free to let me know if you have other questions or need help. I hope this is helpful.

Take care,
Joe

Have had the thermastat changer the other froze open.. still no heat ,defrost i live on limit income.its getting cold and need this working can you help tell me whats wrong ?

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With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

Heater problem
2006 Chevy Equinox

ok, iam mechanicaly inclined but on diesels. the problem is no heat inside of car. i am up to the heater core and it is hot to touch. still not heat. my daughter looked it up and supposedly its a valve type flapper that has been breaking. where is it located. and how do i get to it

if both heater hoses are hot, then it probably is the door, it is a big job, instructions with photos are on some other web sites. If both hoses are not hot, then it is something else- low coolant, bad thermostat, air in line or water pump, but if your temp gauge is normal and not having temp problems it is not one of these others

When my car is sitting still running (stop light ) my temp gauge is going up and the heater starts blowing cold air. when I start driving again the temp gauge goes down and the heater starts blowing warm air again.

first make sure your coolant is full to where it needs to be, you also may need you water pump replaced, but before doing so, check the drive belt, it could be slipping thus not giving the necessary rpms to get the coolant circulating. Here is a guide that will help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

I have checked the coolant and changed the thermostat, still doing the same thing. I check out the guide you have and I endded up jacking the back of the car way up high like it suggested, the coolant level went down and the problem is solved thanks for the guide.

I had similar problem with 2006 equinox temp goes up and down blow hot and cold never overheated got kinda high as far as adding coolant don't go by what the owners manual says for adding cause it doesn't always work I got coolant to the correct level and stays were it's suppose to and blows warm when the heater is used all the time.

Check the hoses going to the heater, one should be hot and the other warm. If ne is warm and trhe other cold the heater core may be clogged, and need to be back flushed.

Heater blows cold air unless idled around 2,000 rpm's.

Hello,

Wait until the engine is cold then remove the radiator cap to check the coolant level start the engine once the cap is off to get a running level and add as needed.

Here is a a guide that can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken

Do not have a radiator cap. Do I just leave the reservoir open? I have checked the level a couple different times always seems fine. But will give it another shot. Thanks

I have seen the heater core trap air inside of it for this you must jack the rear of the car up with it running (hot) to purge the air out. Can you confirm the heater hoses are hot going into and coming out of the firewall?

They are hot. I have already flushed the heater core and it is not clogged. How high does that back need to be? Not sure how high my jack will be able to get it but I might and able to park it on a hill and block the tires then jack it up to get more of a tilt.

It seems weird for the RPM's to make the heater work if both hoses are hot. Lets check the blend door actuator. Here is a guide to help remove the actuator and work the pivot by hand to see if you get heat:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Here is the location of the air temperature door actuator.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

About a month ago my Equinox started to over heat while sitting idle for more than a few minutes and I would get heat off and on. I took it to a Chevy dealer and they did a coolant flush, and said that I had stop leak in the system also. Drove it home still no heat and it started to over heat because the hose from my reservoir was knocked loose!! Fixed that thinking it was the problem but nope. It was then overheating while driving it and no heat! Replaced the thermostat, bled the system. Same thing over heating and no heat. Replaced the radiator bled the system. Ran the car for about 45 minutes and one minute the thermostat needle was at the half way mark and then it just jumped to 3/4 mark. We turned the car off and now have no clue what to replace next.

At this point you could have internal damage such as a blown head gasket due to previous overheating or you may just not be getting all the air out.

I own a 2005 chevy Equinox with 56,000 miles. Recently the heater has started to blow cold air when the car is not moving, as in stopping at a red light or in traffic. When we are moving the heater is fine. Also, the fan in the engine has been running even after the car engine is turned off. Any ideas as to what this could be?

I am having similar problems, also my temp gauge varies, I get intermittent heat and sometimes only thru the defroster vents, not sure about the only when moving scenario. I plan to try the thermostat 1st. I understand that there have been deflector door issues, but that does not explain sometimes getting heat, unless it moves, and does not explain the fan coming on after the car is off, and the temp gauge varying. I am wondering if the water pump is going bad or a clog in the heater core and that is why heat comes when the car is moving. I plan to start with the easy stuff and most conditions point to the thermostat. Did you ever resolve yours or some of this may help you?

Bleed air from the system which is probably the problem.

Here is a guide that will help you fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working


Please let me know what happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

Engine getting hot, fans working, radiator ice cold and heater blowing cold.
How do i burp the air from the cooling system? i have tried the burp valve on the top of the water pump housing, i get coolant but no air.

I would first make sure that the thermostat is working. take it out and boil it up in a pot on the stove and see if it opens fully. If in doubt replace it and the gasket as well.

i have replaced the thermostat and water pump. i just cannot seem to get the cooling system to burp all of the air out of the system.

Have have seen where people will lift the rear of the car or the front up about 2 feet while burping to help get the air out but it could be pumped into the coolant system by a blown head gasket. Here is a guide to check just in case.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

When im driving the engine and the heater will run fine for awhile then the heater will start to blow cold air and the engine temp will increase rapidly until it is red-lined. I have to pull over and turn the engine off. I can hear the fan running but it doesn't seem to be helping, but after a minute i can start the engine and the engine will start to cool down and the heater blows heat again. Any advise would be appreciated. thanks

I think you have a 3.4L engine. The most likely suspect is a leaking cylinder head gasket. That can allow combustion gases to sneak into the cooling system. If it pools under the thermostat, it can fail to open resulting in no coolant flow. That means no hot coolant giving up its heat at the radiator and no hot coolant to the heater core in the dash. Thermostats need to be hit with hot liquid to open. Hot air won't do it.

Your mechanic can do a quick, five-minute chemical test at the radiator to test for one form of a leaking head gasket. That involves drawing air from the radiator or reservoir through a glass cylinder with two chambers partially-filled with a special dark blue liquid. If combustion gases are present, the liquid will turn bright yellow.

Thank you, I will check into that.

My car will not blow hot air until I am driving, but it blows then cold the whole time. The temperature gauge moves back and forth from hot to cold and I hear noises coming from the dashboard, it sounds like the heater core is trying suck water in, but it sounds like its not getting water. I have changed the heater core and it worked great for about two weeks and now it is worst than before. I have also changed the thermostat and checked for air pockets.

check coolant level. it is probably low and for both heater hoses being hot. see pictures for way to bleed air. air bleed will either be on thermostat or near top of radiator.