No crank, no start, shut off while driving?

Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,000 MILES
I left my house and had driven approximately 7 miles when all of a sudden, I noticed the tachometer had dropped to zero signaling to me I have a problem. I immediately turned the radio down and realized the truck had died. I was able to quickly make the next turn and safely navigate the vehicle to a side street and park it. When I attempted to restart it, I got no crank, no start.
I popped the hood to investigate and find that the belts are fine and fluid levels are at appropriate levels. Everything looks as it should in the engine compartment as well as under the vehicle. I then grab my OBD2 scanner from the glove box and attempt to run a scan. All scanner keeps telling me is "Error" after numerous attempts to connect. I visually inspect all fuses both in the interior fuse box as well as in the engine compartment. All fuses are good. Contact AAA and have the truck towed home.

The following are what I have done to diagnose the problem:

Checked voltage at the battery using multi-meter, initially it showed 12.02 volts, so just to be safe I charged it and retested at 12.85.

Performed voltage drop test to ensure no drop between battery posts and terminal connectors, none found.

Double checked all fuses for continuity using multi-meter.

Bench tested starter relay along with swapping with another relay to ensure no issues.

Checked voltage and ground for starter relay at the fuse block.

Starter motor functions when I jumper between pins 30 and 87.

Disconnected negative battery terminal, turned headlights on as well as jumped between connected positive terminal and disconnected negative cable to drain any residual power lingering in capacitors of the PCM in order to reset computer.

Since OBD2 scanner would not connect I proceeded to go to each sensor one by one and disconnect electrical connection and then attempted to rescan. Still get "Error" when I run scan.

Pulled both the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensors out and checked wires.

Disconnected PCM and removed to inspect. Does not smell burnt and all pins are straight and free of any rust or corrosion. Opened it up and inspected the circuit board which was free of rust or corrosion as well. Circuit board looks fine based on simple visual inspection.

Vehicle is equipped with a passive anti-theft system (pats), With the key out of the ignition I get steady "Theft" light flashing. With the key inserted and turned to auxiliary the light goes out after a couple seconds.

When this first happened on Wednesday night my initial thought was possible camshaft or crankshaft position sensor or more than likely the PCM went out. The vehicle gave no indication of any problem prior to it shutting off. No loud noise or peculiar smells, no hesitation or erratic revs.
The check engine light had been on prior for a P0403 EGR issue and last month I had replaced the EGR valve, the EGR valve pressure sensor as well as the EGR vacuum solenoid. Was still giving me the P0403 code so my next step was to replace the catalytic converter, just hadn't gotten around to it yet. Up to this point I had not ever had any issue starting the vehicle nor had it ever died on me, let alone died while driving.

I would like to test the power connection as well as the ground to the PCM but am having a difficult time locating a wiring diagram for this year and model.

At this point I suspect the PCM is out. Is there any way to have a PCM tested out of the vehicle? Can a Ford dealer test them? Or am I missing something else that could be the problem? Does anyone have a PCM wiring diagram for the vehicle listed above XLT (3.0L V6) by chance?

I greatly appreciate any and all help given to help me resolve this issue. Thank you in advance. :)
Saturday, April 29th, 2023 AT 1:32 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Yes, you can send the PCM into a rebuilder and they can test it for you. Here is a guide to help you test the PCM wiring and the PCM wiring diagrams I have included in the diagrams below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

It does sound like the PCM went out to me. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Saturday, April 29th, 2023 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
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Thank you for those wiring diagrams. Using them I was able to verify power and ground to the PCM. At the connecting block that plugs into the PCM I get the following:

Power
Pin 55 - 11.78v (Key On), 12.25v (Key Off)
Pin 71 - 11.78v (Key On), 0.0v (Key Off)
Pin 97 - 11.78v (Key On), 0.0v (Key Off)

I performed a voltage drop test on the grounds and all but one gave a 0.1v drop with key on.
Pins 3, 24, 25, 51, 76 and 103.

Tests were done with the PCM removed from the vehicle. If I plug it back in what would be the best way to test it?

Update: I just reconnected the PCM and checked the 5v Reference that comes from pin 90 for the throttle position sensor and I only get 1.2v with the key on. Is there something else that you recommend I test? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2023 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
The best way to test the PCM is to send it in to a rebuilder which can tell you right away if the unit is good or not.
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Wednesday, May 3rd, 2023 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I shipped the PCM to G7 Computers in New York for testing and repair. Will update with results.
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Thursday, May 4th, 2023 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sounds good, let me know.
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Friday, May 5th, 2023 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Ken, maybe you have a suggestion for me. I received the PCM back from the place I had sent it for repair. After reinstalling it I still get nothing. Cannot communicate with it through OBD2. No crank, no start condition. Checked the 5v reference and I am only getting 1.3v. Upon inspection inside the PCM I cannot determine what was repaired or replaced. I did find 2 spots that looked as they may have been missing chips so I took pictures and emailed the company. Now I have no idea if these are spots missing chips or not but they certainly gave me pause. I will attach the pictures I sent the repair company. The company had said the issue with the PCM was found and repaired but never said exactly what they found or repaired. They also didn't respond with anything when I brought up the 2 spots on the board so I can only guess that is not an issue.

Do you have any suggestion on where I should send this to be repaired? Reason I was trying to have it repaired instead of replaced is that I am under the impression that I would have to have 2 new keys cut and programmed if I replaced it due to the pats. I was only provided 1 key when I purchased the vehicle. So, in order to program 2 new keys I would have to first obtain a second key, have it cut and programmed. Would the vehicle need to be towed to a dealership in order to program the second key? Then I would have to buy the new PCM and 2 new keys, have the keys cut, and then I believe as long as I have the 2 "first" keys I could reprogram the "second" 2 keys. Suggestions on where to have the PCM sent and repaired would be greatly appreciated. Info about what is required if I had to replace the unit would be helpful as well. Thanks again for any help with this matter.

=========================================================================
Here is what I send and received back as far as email goes:

SENT: Today I received back a PCM for a 2003 Ford Escape and it is not working. Still am unable to communicate with it through OBD2 and still not operational. Upon inspection I am unable to determine what was replaced or repaired on the board. I do find 2 spots that look as if they may be missing chips possibly? I have taken pictures and will attach those. When this was shipped I included a very detailed explanation of everything that was tested to ensure that no other problems were present.

RECEIVED: OK. You can send it back or I can issue a refund. There must be an intermittent or latent fault inside the computer. The nature of intermittent faults is that they appear and disappear at random, and therefore make it very difficult (sometimes impossible) to detect. It tested OK after we worked on it, but it just might not have been failing then. Or, there could be something wrong with our equipment. If you send it back, there is a possibility that the damage is too latent or extensive for repair.
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Saturday, May 13th, 2023 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Thanks for the images, if you are getting power and ground to the PCM I would get a rebuilt unit and not have it repaired, because like you said the intermittent problems are difficult to detect. Also, here are the wiring diagrams for the ALDL connector so you can check for power. Also check the battery connections as well and make sure the battery is good and charged. You can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, May 15th, 2023 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I ordered a rebuilt unit which also included 2 keys. Got the keys cut and did the whole 3 second thing to each key. Does not start. Checked the 5v reference from the PCM to the throttle position sensor and get 1.36v with key on. I also tried to hook up OBD2 scanner and still get "Error". There has got to be something I'm missing here. I really need some help with this. I don't have any clue where to go from here. I mean the thing was running fine and then just shut off and that is it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated here.
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Monday, May 22nd, 2023 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
One thing I noticed:
When I turn the key on all the gauges go all the way up, temperature, tachometer and speedometer all go to max and the mileage is showing. Then within a few seconds all the gauges drop, and the mileage goes to just dashes. Now even if I have overlooked a sensor that may be out or having problems, I should still be able to communicate with the PCM through OBD2 right? If there were say problems with the ignition switch, I should still be able to communicate through OBD2 as well?
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Monday, May 22nd, 2023 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
KARMADIVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Problem Solved: Turns out that there was a wire broken for the EGR Pressure Feedback Sensor. When unplugged and tested it must have been making contact. Thank you, Ken, for your help and input with this matter. I greatly appreciate it.
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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2023 AT 8:50 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Thursday, May 25th, 2023 AT 9:31 AM

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