Engine Not Cranking Over?

Try resetting security system and testing the trigger wire these guides should help us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down these guides and report back.

Chec battery for load test if it already has not been then if you are getting power to starter hit the body of starter if it starts you need a new one. Normally you will hear a heavy clunk sound if starter is bad also try another relay with a like relay in fuse box.

Adding a ground wire might make the starter work, but that is not a solution. It is only covering up the original defect that should have been easy to find with a few voltage tests. There's many better suspects for a failure to crank. If you're hearing that famous single, loud clunk each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank", that used to be caused by worn contacts inside the starter solenoid. That was REAL common with the little silver Nippendenso starters on Chryslers and Toyotas. You have a version of an older starter with a bolted-on solenoid. I haven't heard of them causing problems, but depending on your mileage, it is possible for this solenoid to cause the same symptom. This loud clunk is real easy to hear from 50 feet away. That is quite different from the light click of a relay. That often can't be heard inside the vehicle if the windows are rolled up.

A good clue is to watch the brightness of the head lights or interior lights. If they get dim or go out when you try to crank the engine, you don't have a starter problem. A bad battery or corroded or loose cable connections are the best suspects. If the lights stay bright, the starter is not drawing any current. Voltage tests will identify the cause of that. Do you have a voltmeter or test light and know how to use it?

Huh? Relays are electro-mechanical switches, and they had better click. The click is the movable contact popping over to make the connection that turns the switch part on. That "closes" the circuit that allows current to flow. An open circuit is a turned-off circuit or a break in a wire.

It is very rare for the coil in a relay to fail. When you don't hear the relay click, it is usually because water has been getting in, and corrosion formed that is blocking the movable contact. Hearing it click doesn't necessarily mean it's working. The most common failure is the contacts have become pitted from the arcing that occurs each time the contacts open.

A common mistake a lot of people make when working with a relay with arced contacts is they take voltage readings with a voltmeter. Voltmeters are like the pressure gauge on a compressed air line. No air passes through the gauge for it to work. Very little current flows through the meter to make it work. All the arced relay contacts need to do is be able to pass a tiny trickle of current for the voltmeter to incorrectly say it's working. A test light is more accurate in this case. It works thanks to the current flowing through it. Arced relay contacts will usually show up as working with a voltmeter, but they will correctly show up as not working with a test light. If the contacts are too pitted to pass the 50 to 100 milliamps needed to turn on a test light, they for sure won't be able to pass the 10 - 15 amps it takes to run a starter solenoid.