No crank, no start, dash lights on, new battery and starter?

MPRZYDZIAL

MEMBER
2012 NISSAN FRONTIER
2.5L
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
140,000 MILES

Have had several issues with truck starting. Timeline below. Tried starting several times each of these days.

8/24. No crank, no start, dash lights on. Thought it was starter so replaced starter but still didn't work. Replaced clutch rubber stopper and it worked.
8/25. No crank, no start, dash lights on. Battery cables were loose. Tightened and it started.
9/16. No crank, no start, NO dash lights. Replaced battery and it started.
9/24 - put original starter back in and ran fine with no issues.
10/13. Drove 2 miles down the street. Parked about 20 mins. No crank, no start, dash lights on. Battery and starter tested at AutoZone. Battery passed. Starter also passed but was causing an issue jamming the test machine. Bought a remanufactured starter and put the same battery back in. Still didn't start.
10/15. Went back to look at it and started on the first attempt.
10/20. Drove 15 miles round trip. No crank, no start, dash lights on. Disconnected and reconnected battery terminals. Started up.
10/25. Drove around the neighborhood. Turned off and tried turning right back on. No crank, no start, dash lights on. Replaced terminal screws. Started up.
10/27. No crank, no start, dash lights on.
11/6. Replaced battery terminal cables and still not working.
11/7. ObdII scanner shows no codes. Battery voltage 11.8. Tried jumpstarting when battery was at 13.5 and no crank, no start, dash lights on.

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,700 POSTS

Hi,

It sounds like you have a nightmare on your hands. The idea that it works and then it doesn't sound like either a switch issue or connector issue.

When it won't start, have you checked for power to the clutch safety switch? Power is provided to that switch via fuse 49 in the intelligent power distribution module (IPDM) under the hood. When the switch is closed, (clutch is depressed), power travels through the switch and seeks a ground via a CPU in the IPDM. So, at the switch (top of clutch pedal) check for power via a white wire with a green tracer. If that is present, depress the clutch and check for power out via a red wire.

If you have that, then we have power to the starter relay primary.

If there is no power, let me know where it is lost.

Next, there are two fusible links related to the circuit. Check fusible link J in the fusible link box (right rear of engine compartment). Make sure it is in good condition, not corroded, and is making good contact. If that is good, we need to check the fusible link in the battery fusible link box. Do the same there.

Do this and let me know what you find. Note that power between the battery and starter goes through the fusible link in the battery box. So, make sure it is good.

When it doesn't start, also confirm there is power to the larger gauge black wire with a red tracer at the starter motor. That should have B+ voltage at all times.

Let me know what you find or if you have questions. I attached the wiring schematic below for the starter circuit so that you would have a reference. I highlighted the wiring and components to check.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut the schematic in two to make it readable. I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

Images (Click to make bigger)