No crank, no start?

Tiny
CHAIRMANOFTHEBOARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 62,000 MILES
Hi,

The car, (sitting in garage for a few months) does not crank, replaced the starter and solenoid but still no luck. (Motor is not seized)

When you turn the key, you get just a clicking under the dash (glove box area) when you put the key in the start position.

Even tried starting the car in neutral to no avail.

Any advice appreciated. Thank you.
Monday, November 28th, 2022 AT 1:12 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,650 POSTS
Hi,

If you hear a click on the right side of the dash, that is likely the starter interrupter relay. If it clicks, it's actuating.

Here is what I need you to do: Locate the red wire with a light blue tracer on the starter solenoid. Have a helper turn the key to the start position. Does that wire get power? If it does, do the same thing with the black wire at the solenoid. If that shows power with the key in the start position, go to the starter motor and the black wire is what triggers the starter motor. See if it has power at the starter with the key in the start position.

Let me know. Also, I attached the starter wiring schematic below, so you have a reference.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Monday, November 28th, 2022 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for your reply. Just to clarify, I would take a test light and where would I hook it up to? I think the alligator clips to the positive battery terminal and just pokes the wires as previously mentioned through the insulation.
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Tuesday, November 29th, 2022 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

No, when checking for power, the alligator clip will be on the negative terminal. If you touch the opposite side of a wire with power, it will turn on.

As far as poking through the insulation, you can do it that way, but I always try to check at the connectors.

Let me know what you find,

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, November 29th, 2022 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

What info don’t have a helper to turn the key to the start position? Any other way to perform the test you mentioned earlier?
Thank you
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Sunday, October 13th, 2024 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I just read through everything again. Are you certain the battery is good? Are the terminals clean and tight, free of corrosion?

As far as the test is concerned, we need two people to see if power is made available. If you just want to check if the relay and its circuit are working properly.

Here is a link that explains in general how to check both:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know your thoughts and questions.

Take care,

joe
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Monday, October 14th, 2024 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
CHAIRMANOFTHEBOARD
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Hi,
Yes, battery is new. And connections are tight, clean and corrosion free.
When you mean the “relay” are you talking about the solenoid on the fender well?

I’m going to try to get a person to come and give me a hand. (Might be a while, though)
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Saturday, October 19th, 2024 AT 10:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Yes, that is correct. The relay on the inner fender. If you look at the picture, note there is one wire direct from the battery and another power wire from the key/neutral safety switch. The one wire which is solid red is hot at all times. The red with a light blue tracer will only have power when the key is in the start position. Once that occurs, the black wire (the trigger / power wire to the starter motor) is energized and the starter should engage.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, October 20th, 2024 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,
I have no power at any of the aforementioned places you mentioned.
Please advise thanks
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2024 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

If you have no power to the solid red wire at the relay, either we have a broken wire, a dead battery, or no connection at the battery. The solid red wire should have power at all times.

Make sure the connections are good at the battery as well as the cables, including the ground wire. If we have no power to multiple places, I suspect one of the wires at the battery isn't making a good connection or even the ground to the body and engine block is faulty.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2024 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
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I do get the dashboard lights to come on, interior lights, radio, power windows etc, they all work.

Can it be anything to do with the ignition switch in/under the steering column?

Would it be best to change both of the battery cables? I believe they are split into 3 different segments?

I know throwing parts at the problem isn’t t the best way to go about this but that is my situation as of now. Let me know thanks
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Wednesday, October 23rd, 2024 AT 9:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

It could be the ignition switch. However, you said there is no power at the relay coming from the solid red wire. That is where the likely problem is. That should have power at all times. The red/blue should get power when the key is placed in the start position.

Have you been able to trace the red wire to see if there are any issues?

Joe
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Friday, October 25th, 2024 AT 10:59 PM

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