My engine shut off while driving can you help me fix it?

This sounds like your battery shorted out but to be sure please run down these guides.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

This is one of two things in my mind. First and most likely is the fuel pump is failing. The sputtering comment is what points me in that direction. We need to test fuel pressure when this happens and see if it is around 60 PSI.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The other issue could be the throttle air control system. This system is responsible for allowing the proper amount of air into the engine for it to run properly. The starting and stalling is normally caused by this system. However, it normally doesn't cause a sputter.

Let me know what you find with the fuel pressure and we can go from there.

Hello,

It sounds like the battery has shorted out and needs replacing there is a guide to confirm the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Here will give you an idea on how to change it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

You mentioned the steering went out completely. When the engine stalls, the power steering pump stops running, and you will lose the power assist, that is all. There is always still a mechanical backup but it is going to take a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. The greatest effort will always be when the car is standing still. In fact, some people are not strong enough to turn the steering wheel then, but that is hardly a safety concern when the car is not moving.

The faster the car is moving, the easier it will be to turn the steering wheel. At highway speeds you do not even need the power steering, and you would barely notice if it failed. Too may people think they have no steering at all if the engine stalls, then, when that day comes, they do not even try to avoid a crash.

There are two things you can do to get the diagnosis started for the stalling problem. The first is to follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box. Be sure that connection is clean and tight. That connection causes a lot of problems on all brands of cars.

Second, have the charging system tested by checking out tis guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

As a guess, based only on the age of your car, the typical generator is rated at around ninety amps. If the full-load test shows it can only develop exactly one third of that, or around thirty amps, it has one defective internal diode of the six. That can cause or aggravate the symptoms you described, but there's more to the story. Since GM redesigned their generators for the 1987 model year, they have a real lot of generator failures caused by the huge voltage spikes they develop.

The battery is the key component in damping and absorbing those spikes, but they lose their ability to do that as they age and the lead flakes off the plates. If testing proves the generator needs to be replaced, always replace the battery on GM vehicles at the same time unless it is less than about two years old. That will reduce the high number of repeat generator failures.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

Im am sorry if I seemed disrespectful I didn't mean it. I would put my money on the battery being bad or a bad connection.

Good afternoon,

This sounds like you have a rocker arm that is the issue and one of the valves is not working

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

If you have the codes, it will help me narrow the area of failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

When you removed the valve covers, did you see any damage on one of the rocker arms?

I would also check the compression to be sure there is no internal damage. You should have 140-160 pounds.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy

1. Remove the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .
2. Loosen the valve rocker arm bolts.
3. Remove the rocker arms.
4. Remove the pushrods.

The intake push rods measure 147.51 mm (5.81 in).
The exhaust push rods measure 154.87 mm (6.1 in).

Installation Procedure

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1. Coat the ends of the pushrods using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .
2. Install the pushrods.

The intake pushrods are identified with blue stripes.
The exhaust pushrods are identified with yellow stripes.

3. Ensure that the pushrods seat in the lifter bore.
4. Coat the rocker arm friction surfaces using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .

Important: Shims (88894006) may be required under the valve rocker arm pedestals if reconditioning has been performed on the cylinder head or its components.

5. Install the rocker arms.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

6. Install the rocker arm bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 34 N.m (25 lb ft).

7. Install the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .

Check your fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. If your fuel pressure is low it will cause lose of power and if it is too low a hard start until enough pressure is built. Low fuel pressure can be caused by a bad fuel pump, leaking pressure regulator or fuel injectors.
Here is a link to check fuel system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Check fuel filter also.

Sounds like it could have a bad crankshaft position sensor you mentioned that the tachometer does not work when it acts up. Have you had the computer scanned for codes?

If the crankshaft position sensor was bad the tachometer would not work right that is what tells the computer the rpm's. Make sure you get the exact code numbers not code descriptions.