No check engine light with igition on

Have you checked the diagnostic fault codes? If that is the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay, it gets turned on by the engine computer when it sees engine rotation, (cranking or running), and it knows that by the signals from the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor. Sometimes a failed sensor wont set a code if you are just cranking the engine. Most of the time the computer has to see the missing signal for a longer time period when you're coasting to a stop with a stalled engine.

If you are testing voltages at the ignition coil, any injector, or at the fuel pump, you still should see 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. That indicates the ASD relay and circuitry are okay and the computer has control over the relay. Use a test light for that. Many digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough for you to see that one-second blip.

What model do you have? I cannot find anything in 2000 with a 1.9L engine.

Which engine do you have? I can't copy and paste wiring diagrams. Sometimes I can manage to copy a small section of one system, but it won't let me copy entire manuals.

I can't find "Lancer" anywhere for 2000. I use ProDemand for wiring diagrams and Rock Auto for parts pictures and reference. Neither one lists a Lancer for 2000. Is there another model that's similar? There IS a Lancer listed for 2002. Only shows it with a 2.0L engine.

I never approve of throwing parts at a problem in hopes one will fix it, but since I don't have access to information for your model, the two best suspects are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. It's the signals from both of them that tells the Engine Computer the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), and it's time to turn on the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay. On some other models that might be called the ignition relay, fuel injection relay, ECM relay, or something like that.

Both of those sensors commonly fail on any car brand by becoming heat-sensitive. Typically they cause stalling at first when the engine is warmed up, or a failure to restart shortly after stopping a hot engine, then they work again after they cool down for an hour. Eventually they fail completely.

You may need to get these from a salvage yard, or buy one new one to try, then try the other one. The typical symptoms are no spark, no injector pulses, and the fuel pump doesn't run during cranking. Be aware that on some engines these sensors have a thick paper spacer on the end to set the critical air gap. Some have a thin plastic rib molded onto the end. Some don't require any adjustments.

I have a Chrysler DRB3 scanner for all of my personal vehicles. A lot of independent shops bought them because with an extra plug-in card, it will do emissions-related stuff on all car brands after 1995. All the good scanners are expensive. You have to use it a lot to save money on taking your car to a mechanic.

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