Cranks will not start

There is an ECCS relay that powers the computer that sounds like it is not working. Here is a guide and the location of the relay so you can test it and go from here:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers

You nailed it the relay was wet once. I replaced it it started right up. ;) Cost me $32.00 for the relay. I love this site.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

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Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic.

My car will not start, ran fine the day before, now just turns over, occasionally it will sound like it is about to fire.

I have checked the following:
Timing belt, it is fine, distributor rotor spins
Spark, fat blue spark when plug is grounded.
Fuel filter, with fuel hose off, gas stream is strong and shoots about six inches into the air.
Injectors, plugs are wet and smell like gas.
Distributor, cap and rotor are in good shape, no cracks or burnt spots, posts are clean.
Fuses, checked and metered all engine/ignition fuses, all good
Electrical connections, all checked and firmly seated in thier sockets

Do not know what else to check. Ideas?

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge and then come back with the readings. This is where we start.

Fuel pressure is 3.5 pounds.

Let me clarify my last response.
Fuel pressure is 3.5 pounds measured down stream of the fuel filter and before the injector rail.

Your fuel pressure is way too low it is suppose to be 34-43psi. Test the fuel pressure regulator. If okay replace the fuel pump.

The car will not start. I have jumped it and it wants to start, gets right to the point of starting, but does not.

So when you jump it the engine turns over but will not start? You need to test it for spark and fuel pressure. Get back to me.

We got the car started by stepping on the gas all the way while jumping it. We let it run awhile, took it for a drive, but when we got back and turned it off, it would not start again.

Check the spark, should be blue and strong, not orange and weak.

The car is a GXE, when I went in the morning to start the car it started up and I moved it forward in my driveway, later I went out to start the car and it started and turned off right away. Since this every time I try to start the car it will not start. I have replaced the fuel filter and distributor cap and rotor. All spark plug wires are giving spark. The fuel pump is working because I can hear it when I get under the car. When you go to start the car and press down on the gas it sounds like it is about to start but it will not. I do not smell fuel in the engine compartment after trying to start the car for a few minutes. Any help would be great!
Thanks

The fuel pump might not be producing pressure. Check it with a fuel pressure gauge then comeback with the readings.

I have a manual 200SX 115,000 miles.
I went to start it and it did not do anything but make a odd faint noise. The noise was similar to when someone forgets gets their car is running and tries to start it, only it was not loud at all and lasted for maybe only a second. It did not make any noises like it was trying to turn over or anything. My CD player light flickers on and then off. I tried it again and nothing. No noise, no clicking, no power to anything in the car at all. I had just driven it maybe an hour before. I did not leave any lights or anything on. I was not having any problems that I think would have anything at all to do with this. My friends complained about the exhaust smell. The engine has been a little bit louder then normal for a while now. I just figured it's because it is an old car and I need to have my exhaust system worked on soon.

I bought it in 2002. I have replaced the following:
Fly wheel 2002.
Battery 2003 .
O2 censor sensor 2004.
Battery again in 2005.
Alternator January 2007.
**I have never replaced the starter**

My brother normally does all the light work on my car. (brake pads, battery, broken motor on whippers)
He replaced the battery both times. Each time they were covered in battery acid and crusty. He said I need new conections to my battery.

I checked under the hood, the battery does not look acid covered. I glanced at the connectors, they appeared to be hooked up and the did not wiggle. I do not know if that means much.

I really appreciate any advice anyone has. I will keep repairing this car until the day gasoline cars are illegal and then I will retire it to the hall of fame.. a.k.a my garage. :) :) Thanks!

You say your are getting no power or very little so I would check the battery and cables and clean them and see. Also try jumping it and seeing if it tries to start right up.

I have to wait until tomorrow for my brother to come check my car out and it is annoying me. If this is my battery or even the alternator why does it keep happening? I know that replacing a battery or alternator that often is not normal. Is there something that is being looked over that keeps causing this to happen? Why does the positive, negative, and cables get so much build up on them is that normal?
Some random guy parked near me said it is my starter this time. If it was would my lights and everything come on when I try to start it? Did not make sense to me.

While being annoyed without a car I did the following:

Tried to start it last night. It mad a click noise and was beeping cause my key was in it. The lights would not come on nothing. The it would not even beep for my keys being in it.
Went outside an saw my headlights on brake lights on. I guess I did not turn the switch off before. windows and locks would not work. tried to start it made a "crunch" noise I guess and nothing. All the lights and everything went out. Then it would not even click when I tried to start it.
Today I had my friend jump it. waited about ten minutes. When I tried it it made that light "crunch" noise and all of the warning lights came on like it would when starting but then they went off. no power to anything. Left jumpers on a little longer tried one final time and it did nothing no noise no clunk no click no beeping when I put the key in. I know I need to clean the battery and check the connections. My brother will do that tomorrow. Also, when we jumped it he said that normally when you hook the car that will not start up it normally will spark when you hook up the negative or something and it did not.

When I start the car I hear a clicking. Replaced the starter and that did not work.

Could be the starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good.

Car just stopped while driving, lights and everything still works.

The first step for this problem is always to have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. Many auto parts stores will do that for you for free if you can get the car there. The problem is their simple fault code readers usually only work on '96 and newer models. On '95 and older models, GM and Chrysler make reading fault codes yourself real easy. Yours is fairly complicated, but go to this page and give this a try:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/nissan-obd1-diagnostic-trouble-codes-and-retrieval-procedure-1984-to-1994

I have somehow managed to trigger an anti-theft or security system in my car it is not allowing the car to start. I call the Nissan dealership and they said it is possible the cars not recognizing the key. What if any ideas or tricks are there out there I can try to bypass the switch.
Please help,
Shona

we do not advise on bypassing system try another key first not a new one you can try our reset procedure or look online for a by pass by not a lot always work either. see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

The engine is getting gas, getting compression, and getting spark, I checked timing and it is in time, what could it be? It had this problem before, but fixed itself for a little while, now is having the same problem

There has to be something wrong with your testing. You need the exact fuel pressure. You also need to test for injector pulse using a noid light bulb.

My nissan has always started . It has been well maintained. This winter when the temperture warms up to between 30 and 40 degrees and we get moisture back in the air it will not start. It is fine all the rest of the time

The engine is it a GA-16DE?

Yes it is a Ga-16DE

Inspect the fuel filter at the firewall on the drivers side and also check the fuel pressure and comeback with the pressure readings.

THis car has performed well with no problem. I drove it on 10/2 with no indication of problem. the next day, I tried to start the car and it won't. I asked jumped it and it started idled the car for half hour and turned it off, still it will not start, then jumped it and it started.

Please Help


Thanks


Emeka

If it starts every time you jump it, chances are that your battery is not holding charge. Use a battery charger to fully charge the battery (most auto store will do this for free) and no, leaving your car running for an hour will not charge the battery. Alternator is designed to replenish charge that you use in the course of starting the vehicle, not charging a discharged battery.

1995 Nissan Sentra:
My car will start when temps are below 90 degrees, but anything above that, the car won't even turn over. As it is, I have to jiggle the key to start the car, but when above 90 degrees, it doesn't even turn over. The battery is good, all the normal things turn on when the key is engaged, it just doesn't turn over. What could be the problem???? Would the ignition coil cause this problem in the heat if it were going bad?

[quote:0ca01aed60="JC2daC"]1995 Nissan Sentra:
My car will start when temps are below 90 degrees, but anything above that, the car won't even turn over. As it is, I have to jiggle the key to start the car, but when above 90 degrees, it doesn't even turn over. The battery is good, all the normal things turn on when the key is engaged, it just doesn't turn over. What could be the problem???? Would the ignition coil cause this problem in the heat if it were going bad?[/quote:0ca01aed60]

Is it a GA16DE or 2.0L Auto or Manual tranny

What do you mean by this: it just doesn't turn over.

Do you mean it doesn't crank over or it cranks and refuses to start I need this answered before I continue.

GA16DE

Check the fuse D 10amp
Inhibitor relay in relay box front left engine compartment
Or it could be the ignition switch

2.0L

Inhibitor switch at transmission also called the neutral safety switch.

Note: There's no starter relay for both.

it an automatic 2.0 and it won't turn over...it doesn't crank

[quote:7ea55ecfb1="JC2daC"]it an automatic 2.0 and it won't turn over...it doesn't crank[/quote:7ea55ecfb1]

Cheap tool get a remote starter find the starter circuit on the starter connect the clip to it and other to the battery cable on the starter-Push the button did the starter crank over. You need to answer this before we can proceed.

I haven't had many problems with my Nissan which has approx. 135,000 miles on it.
This morning, I tried to start it: it didn't crank, and it didn't start. When I would turn the key, it didn't make any noise except for a perhaps a very faint psss noise the first time I tried. The interior light came on and off and at times I could turn on outside lights. But other times I couldn't.
I jumped the car and it started... although not very easily. Drove to work, turned the car off in the lot and it once again doesn't even crank. However, the battery light is not on...
What could this be?

I took battery in and had it tested. I pulled the started and had it tested. The both tested fine. Put it back together and it started right up, first try. I drove it for a week and then it did the same thing for 30- 40 minutes and probably as many start attempts it would not start.
Then right after I called a wrecker, I tried it again and it started right up just like it had been all week. I have reseated the relays under the hood and tested the shift switch to make sure it new it was in park. Can't think of what else to check. it is starting fine today but I now have no confidence that i will tomorrow.

[quote:f37a3108a6="monalisa000@yahoo.com"]I haven't had many problems with my Nissan which has approx. 135,000 miles on it.
This morning, I tried to start it: it didn't crank, and it didn't start. When I would turn the key, it didn't make any noise except for a perhaps a very faint psss noise the first time I tried. The interior light came on and off and at times I could turn on outside lights. But other times I couldn't.
I jumped the car and it started... although not very easily. Drove to work, turned the car off in the lot and it once again doesn't even crank. However, the battery light is not on...
What could this be?[/quote:f37a3108a6]

Have the battery and alternator load tested, then comeback

I have a code 55

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1995
Nissan
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor
12 Air Flow Meter
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
22 Fuel Pump
31 Engine Control Unit
32 EGR Function
33 Oxygen (O2) Sensor
34 Knock Sensor (Turbo Only)
35 EGR Temperature Sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor
45 Injector Leak
51 Injector Circuit
54 A/T Control
55 No Faults In Memory

Get a starting fluid or ether and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it