I am assuming the starter will not crank the engine. Look for the 10-amp "crank" fuse number eight on the left side of the instrument panel. It will have two test points on top. Check for twelve volts on both of them. You should find twelve volts when the ignition switch is in the "crank" position. If you find that, remove the starter relay from its socket under the hood.
Be careful to not poke your meter's test probe into those terminals. Doing so could spread them and cause future intermittent connections.
One of those four terminals must have twelve volts all the time. Disregard that one. Two others should read very low resistance to ground. As an alternative, move your meter's or test light's ground wire to the battery's positive post, then use the positive probe to search for a good ground. Two terminals in that socket will show twelve volts now, or low resistance to ground. Disregard those two terminals.
That leaves you with just one terminal left to check. That one should have twelve volts when the ignition switch is in the "crank" position, just like fuse number eight did. If you do not find that switched twelve volts, the neutral safety switch and its wiring are suspect. To bypass the neutral safety switch, it is on the left side of the transmission. Unplug it, then in the connector, jump the purple and yellow wires together. If that switch is defective, the starter will crank now, including when in "drive" or "reverse", so be careful.
Tuesday, December 8th, 2020 AT 7:21 AM
(Merged)