DTC transmission codes P0756 and 70-03 A/T

Hi,

The idea that it revs high and you can't go faster leads me to believe it is related to the shift solenoid indicated in the diagnostic trouble code.

The shift solenoid is responsible for shifting to the next gear. Basically, it's the same as if you were driving a vehicle with a manual transmission and never up-shifting. (if that makes sense LOL)

To replace the shift solenoid, you will need to remove the shift solenoid valve cover on the transmission. This will require draining the fluid, supporting the transmission, A/T cooler line brackets, and a few other things to access the solenoid.

I attached the directions for the procedure below. I highlighted the solenoid in question and an important note under it. Note that you shouldn't have to remove any of the other solenoids to replace solenoid B.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

So then solenoid b would be the last one towards the bottom on the right correct? I just want to be sure. So I'll just disconnect the connector and remove and place new one then connect it and put everything else back together.

Hi,

I looked at the pic from the manual and see why you may be confused. It does appear to be the bottom right. And yes, once you remove and replace it, put it back together.

Let me know if I can help in any way. Also, if you have a chance, let me know how things work out for you. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

So I changed out the shift solenoid and the car was driving perfect for about 20 to 25 minutes. About the first 15 minutes it was street driven then the rest I got onto the freeway and once I hit uphill the car went back to doing the same thing and more often there were no codes and the only code I got was a 45-06 and shift malfunction. Is it time to just invest into a new transmission at this point? after believing the issue was finally gone due to it driving great I just couldn't believe it was too good to be true. :(

Hi,

If it was working properly, are you sure the wiring wasn't an issue? I've seen a breakdown under the insulation causing problems. One minute there is a connection and movement causes that to change.

Did you check all connections and the wiring when you did the work?

If the trans was working correctly, there is an issue either with a bad solenoid or shift valve is stuck. This repair is much cheaper than a new trans.

The code you provided, 45-06 (P1734), can be either with solenoid B or C. Your last post is the first I saw it. Do me a favor. Take a look through the diagnostics below and let me know if you are comfortable performing them. You will need a scan tool that can actuate solenoids.

Note: The first pic below shows the definition of the code, pics 2 - 4 are the diagnostics, and the last pics are advanced diagnostics.

Let me know. And again, I don't (at this point) feel the transmission is bad.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Quick question. okay, so say I buy the shift solenoid C what part number am I looking for? Because I been searching online for ever and all I see is A, B are they all the same part as long as the connectors match? Like A is brown as so is C so would an A work as C too? Because I can't find that part.

My manual isn't providing the OEM part number. However, take a look at this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265288568357?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1QC9rvMJcQimJZki_rRm3Xw46&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=265288568357&targetid=1262407448140&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9006104&poi=&campaignid=12875054069&mkgroupid=120167277977&rlsatarget=pla-1262407448140&abcId=9300536&merchantid=114691725&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-piMt5Tf8gIVqNSzCh3sWQJ-EAQYBSABEgJAvvD_BwE

Everything I'm reading shows they are the same. The only way to confirm is to contact an Acura dealer.

Let me know.

Joe

Good Afternoon did you ever find the part number I think Im having the same issues as you. I changed both my external solenoids(A&B, and C). I found two different part numbers and the solenoid shows as a black connector and a Brown one. Im just wondering if it matters which one I get Im pretty sure they are the same thing but just wanted some clarity since(Im assuming) you changed the piece and are familiar with it. I appreciate it have a good day.

-HBTSX

For code P0756, the system is pointing to shift solenoid valve B. On the 2004 Acura TSX automatic, the OEM listing shows Shift Solenoid Set B as part number 28015-RCT-306. Let me know if you need anything else.

hey bro so im pretty sure thats not the part number and thats complete difference but look check it i changed the transmission solenoid B And the car is still in limp mode well actully prior to me changing the solenoid B the internal one the cvar wouldnt even catch gear but now (ichanged the solenoid) its catching all the gears well sometimes lol. i dont have an engine light but have both the VSA and triangle light on. Im just as confused as when i started is there something else i should changing or look at i got a shifting error when i first scaned it and a PCM code yeah idk anything would help.

Sometimes the code will come up if you have an internal failure. Please upload a short video in your response of the problem, so I can see what's going on.

Here’s the video lmk if you can see it I’m kinda having trouble sending it

Thank you for the video, it helps, so can you tell me what you have done so far?, New fluid or shift solenoid? Also, I would clear the codes and then start the engine without putting the car in gear and run the codes again. We are trying to see which code comes up first.

So first i changed the shifting solenoid A&B the external ones and then Solenoid C also the other external one. found out those didn’t make a difference and car was doing the same thing.(also i should note that when i cleaned the tube filters. they were clean no debri or gunk was very clean surprisingly)Next i moved on to changing the internal Shifting solenoid i think they might be called the control solenoid also im not sure i did research but everything was vague and all over the place. i followed the steps as showed up above i drained my tranny oil and i put a strainer not a single piece of material fell into the strainer so im assuming the cluth didnt blow up bc there was no metal shaving or cluth material on the trannsmission drain bolt. The oil was still a nice bright red and look fairly new. i opened up the transmission valve changed only the solenoid B put everything back together filled the car back up with 3 quarts of ATF-dw1 or i think its also called z-1 or type h and yeah thats pretty much it

Okay, nice work, lets clear the codes, then start the engine and work the shifter and then run the codes again. Let me know which ones come up.

Hey Strailer i just want to really thank you for your help and responding rapidly. But okay before i cleared codes i had; 71-3 shifting solenoid valve B stuck Off, 70-2 fuel injection control module(Irrelavant to the problem and this is the first time ive seen the code), A-T system malfunction, 83-1 ECM/PCM relation failure, 84-1 sensor logic failure, And P0756 Shifting Solenoid B preformance/Stuck off.
I cleared those codes started the car put it in gear and it didnt react the same way as in the video No engine light came on or VSA light i even drove it down my block, The gears were still slipping but they caught and its still in limp mode i cant pass 1.5k rpms but Somehow it shifted into 2nd and didnt let me pass 2k rpms Still no light came on. Parked the car up and i ran the codes and 3 codes came up but still no dash lights

P1743 shifting Error F
P0780 Shifting error
P0756 Shifting Solenoid B preformance/Stuck off
These were the codes that popped up. Got any Solution for me or other things i should check or am i just cooked and i need to buy a whole new car. Thank you for your time


-HBTSX

Can I ask if the fluid was burnt the first time you worked on the transmission? IF so the clutches might be toast and all the fluid and solenoids will not help it, but if the fluid was okay I would swap out the input shaft sensor. Here is the location. Check out the images (below). Let me know how it goes

Hey so i changed it but i think that photo has the wrong location thats the output sensor and the input sensor is more behind towards the firewall But anyways i changed the input speed sensor and nothing.. The fluid still looked bright red not dark tinted and it also didnt smell burnt and i also strained it and there was nothing it was clean

HBTSX

If the fluid is good this can be a valve body issue or the PCM. I would go over your work again to see if you missed anything. Also I would try clearing the codes and then do not drive the car and then start he engine to see what codes come up so we get the most relevant code first.