Getting back to the sensor wires, reading voltages with the sensor's connector unplugged is the same as reading the water pressure at the hose nozzle with your big fat foot kinking the hose. Full pressure, or 5.0 volts for a sensor supply, will show up regardless of how much resistance is in that wire. When you plug the sensor in and take a voltage reading by back-probing the connector, you're taking the reading with current flowing. Any resistance in the wire will cause a voltage drop and you'll find less than 5.0 volts, just like with your foot on the hose, you'll find less water pressure at the nozzle only after you open it.
The only time resistance measurements have value is when you identify an open wire, with infinite resistance, (broken), or as a verification test after you've figured out the cause of the problem.
The next thing that relates to this is the value in taking voltage readings at both ends of a wire. This is especially true when a reading at the sensor doesn't agree with what's on the scanner's display. The scanner shows what the computer is seeing, and that should be the same as what YOU are seeing at the sensor. The issue here is a break in the signal wire. I'll be back shortly for part 2.
Let me stop here for a minute and share a useful tidbit. In the typical three-wire sensor circuit, like for a throttle position sensor, it is fed with 5.0 volts and ground. Ground is typically 0.2 volts but we'll call it 0.0 volts for simplicity. The mechanical movable contact inside the sensor can go from lowest to highest voltage as the throttle is opened, however, there are mechanical stops inside it that limits the travel from approximately 0.5 to 4.5 volts. (Those numbers are for discussion of theory. In actual practice you'll find perhaps 0.38 volts to 4.22 volts or something like that.) The point is, you'll never find 0.0 volts at idle or 5.0 volts at wide-open-throttle. What CAN happen though is lets say the 5.0 volt feed wire is broken, or there's a break inside the sensor. Without that 5.0 volts, you'll have 0.00 volts on the ground wire, like normal, AND on the signal wire. 0.00 volts is outside of that 0.5 to 4.5 volt range and is not an acceptable value. THAT is what sets a diagnostic fault code for, in this case, "TPS voltage too low". Similarly, if the ground wire or the connection inside the sensor were open, you'd see 5.0 volts everywhere, including the signal wire. 5.0 volts is outside the acceptable range again, so this would set the fault code, "TPS voltage too high". It's those voltages the computer uses to know when to set a fault code.
My whole reason for sharing this wondrous information is to make sense of what happens if the signal wire is open. For now, lets assume it's the wire, and not a break inside the sensor. With a good 5.0 volt feed circuit and a good ground circuit, the sensor will work properly and you'll find between 0.5 and 4.5 volts at the sensor's signal terminal, but with a broken wire, that voltage can't get back to the computer. Logically you might expect to find 0.0 volts at the computer, and in some cases you'd be right, but not for the reason you think. That signal wire is tied to all kinds of circuitry inside the computer, and when nothing is broken, all that other circuitry is irrelevant. It has absolutely no affect on the signal voltage. But, ... When the signal wire is broken, thanks to all that other circuitry, the voltage on that wire can "float" to some random value. That random value could be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts, and it could bounce around as other signal voltages change inside the computer. As long as it stays within the acceptable range, the computer will accept it and try to make fuel metering calculations based on those erroneous readings.
Okay, I'm finally getting to the good stuff. To prevent those erroneous readings, they add a "pull-up" resistor between the 5.0 volt supply circuit and the signal circuit, inside the computer. That resistor is such an extremely high resistance value that it has no effect on a properly working circuit, BUT, ... When the signal wire is broken, that pull-up resistor places 5.0 volts on the signal circuit to force a bad condition that will be detected and set a fault code. This is where you would measure the proper 0.5 to 4.5 volts at the sensor's connector, but the scanner would show 5.0 volts all the time, regardless of throttle position.
Where inexperienced mechanics get derailed is they start out by checking for fault codes, they get a "voltage too high" code, and assume the break is inside the sensor, so they replace it, then have the same problem and same code. That wastes enough time if they have the sensor in stock, but if they have to order it and wait for it, or it's an expensive part, you can see where that starts to run into dollars they can't charge the customer for. Experienced mechanics know they need to verify the scanner's reading at the sensor. With one quick measurement, they will see immediately the two don't match. The only way you can have a different voltage at each end of a wire is when that wire is open, (broken).
Okay, here's part 2. I mentioned an almost broken wire with just one strand still intact. That is all it takes to get a resistance reading of 0 ohms. Sure, that would be good enough for a sensor circuit, but what about when that last strand has just cracked and there's a little carbon between the ends? Arcing or any spark leaves a carbon track behind, just like we used to see inside wet distributor caps years ago. Carbon conducts electrical current but not as well as copper wires do. The resistance of that carbon can be measured just like any other resistor, but more importantly, it can allow enough current to get through to put some voltage on the signal wire at the computer. The typical symptom is the voltage on the scanner will change as the accelerator pedal is pressed, but it will be erratic and incorrect. More noticeable is the voltage will change when you aren't doing anything with the accelerator. Flexing the wiring harness almost always causes a noticeable change in voltage on the scanner.
The next thing to consider is there are almost always a number of three-wire sensors with a 5.0 volt feed, a ground return, and a signal wire. Those will share a single 5.0 volt feed from the computer, and they'll share a common ground wire that goes to ground AFTER it goes through some circuitry inside the computer. (That's why you'll find close to 0.2 volts instead of 0.0 volts). Once the 5.0 volt wire runs from the body over to the engine, there's a splice, and individual wires run to each sensor. The same is true for the ground wires. Those splices are real good suspects for corrosion and intermittent connections. The main wire usually runs to one sensor, and those that are wrapped around it and soldered to it go to the other sensors. The clue to a corroded splice is you'll find normal 5.0 volts at one sensor's connector, and erratic or low voltage at all the others. Low voltage at the sensors' 5.0 volt feed terminal will cause a low signal voltage that will be seen on the scanner. With a throttle position sensor it will always be proportional, meaning if you have 0.5 volts at idle when you have the proper 5.0 volts on the feed wire, if you have half as much, (2.5 volts) on the feed, you'll have half as much on the signal wire, (0.25 volts). The signal voltage will always be low by the same percentage as the feed voltage is low.
That's not true with other sensors. The MAP sensor is a good example. As I recall, you said yours has four wires. I'm not sure what that fourth one is for. Typically you'll have the same ground and 5.0 volt feed wires, but the signal voltage varies depending on vacuum. The signal voltage for a mass air flow sensor varies depending on the weight of the air flowing through the sensor. With this type of sensor, it's hard to know what the signal voltage will go to when the 5.0 volt supply is just low, but if it goes to 0.0 volts, the sensor will stop working. The same thing happens when the ground wire is broken. Either condition will set multiple fault codes, like you have. That is the clue to suspect broken wires when you have multiple codes, because you know it isn't likely two or three sensors failed at exactly the same time. When there's only a fault code for one sensor, you can assume the other sensors are working since the computer didn't detect a problem with them, and that would tell you the sensor is a better suspect than the wires running to it from the splices.
The scanner and / or fault codes will tell you which circuit(s) to look at, then the voltage readings at the sensor(s) will tell you whether to suspect sensors or wires, and which wires, by those voltage readings.
The next thing to consider has to do with how some computers work. We've all heard stories about how someone found out their engine runs better when they disconnect a sensor. I mean it's running poorly, but now is better once that sensor is disconnected. There will still be symptoms like a hesitation, stumble, low power, etc, but it runs better than having to walk! At issue is the computer is still using a sensor's reading to calculate fuel metering even though it's getting bad data from that sensor. Often this includes there not being a fault code set for that sensor. The most common example of this is the MAP sensor, especially those that have a vacuum hose between the sensor and the intake manifold. If there's a crack in that hose, the sensor will see lower-than-normal vacuum, and that corresponds to acceleration or higher load on the engine. The computer responds by commanding more fuel even though the engine was running okay. The result is black smoke from the tail pipe, low power, and poor fuel mileage, among other things. Sometimes the computer will see, thanks to all the other sensors and operating conditions, that the MAP sensor is sending the wrong signal voltages, so it will disregard it. It needs to factor in engine load to the fuel calculations, so when it knows it can't trust the signal voltages, it "injects" an approximate voltage and tries to run on that. It knows, for example, if you're in "park" or "neutral", you're not under load. If the throttle position sensor says you're at idle, it knows you're not accelerating. These and a lot of other factors help the computer guess at the correct MAP voltage and that's what is uses.
It guesses pretty well in most cases, and that brings us to when someone unplugs the sensor. If that sensor is sending signal voltages that are within the acceptable range, AND are somewhat close to what they should be, as in that cracked hose to the MAP sensor, the computer will believe that sensor, but since the signal voltage is actually wrong, you can expect the engine to present some symptoms. When you unplug the sensor, the computer is forced to admit it can't get a usable signal, so it reverts to that injected signal that's based on all the other sensors and operating conditions. If it sees a high throttle position sensor voltage, for example, along with a relatively low rpm, it knows you're pulling a heavy trailer up a steep hill, and manifold vacuum is going to be real low. It knows you need more fuel even though it doesn't have a signal from the MAP sensor.
This type of problem will usually set a fault code but it won't tell you why. A typical code might be "Erratic MAP voltage", "no change in MAP from start to run", or "MAP out of range". In this case, "out of range" doesn't mean out of the acceptable 0.5 to 4.5 volts. It means it knows the signal voltage should be something other than what it's seeing. If the incorrect voltage is close to correct, the computer may try to run on it but it may still set a fault code.
With the sensor unplugged, you know the computer will inject an approximate voltage to run on. That approximate voltage might be a whole lot closer to correct than what's coming from the sensor, and that's why the engine runs better. With a signal voltage that's known to be incorrect but close, the computer will set a fault code, then it MIGHT inject an approximate value to run on. Here's where the odd problem can occur. The scanner may display the injected value, not the incorrect signal coming from the sensor! That has to be a programming issue with the car's computer because the scanner only displays the information it gets from that computer. This has happened on some GM cars in the '90s but I can't be more specific than that. You could have a fault code that says a sensor's signal voltage is too high, but the voltage on the scanner appears to be perfect and changes like it is expected to. The code might have set during an intermittent problem, and you would assume it wouldn't set again once it's erased, but in fact, the code comes right back while the signal voltage looks good. I know this is an issue with some other car brands because it's common enough that we discuss it from time to time. This is where it is critical that you measure the voltage right at the sensor to verify the findings on the scanner before you buy a part.
The fact that you're seeing changing voltages tells me you're in a circuit with a defect, but to have so many fault codes they would have to have something in common. Given the engine work you just did, the likely suspects, as I'm sure I must have mentioned already, are a break in the common 5.0 volt feed wire, a break in the common ground wire, or all the signal wires have breaks, meaning a harness connector is unplugged or loose.
Oh, and lest I forget, instead of a pull-up resistor, a manufacturer could elect to use a "pull-down" resistor. That works the same way, but it's connected to ground instead of the 5.0 volt supply, and will also force an unacceptable condition to be detected when the signal wire is broken. You'll find 0.2 volts for signal voltage.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2015 AT 6:11 PM