Ignition coil failure?

Hello,

Here is a good guide on how to check the wiring with the engine wiring diagrams below so you can see how the system works and which injector wires to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on, that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Ken, thank you very much for the quick response and schematics . Although (diagrams 4 and 5) show this a single PCM connector, I needed the (Red coil wire diagram)(thank you for that ). Interesting during my research using 2carPros I found a previous thread for a 2005 Escape diagram. request providing the attached pinout on a 3 connector type PCM. (fyi attached ).

I did resolve my issue on #6coil / #22 pos. PCM. I ran a new wire: (in sep. loom spliced/soldered/heat shrink at both ends of connectors.) (i know not prof. protocol) but we are back up and running .

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

I brought my vehicle to autozone and they told me the problem, was that I had coil packs, A and C, that were bad. I replaced the coil packs, but the car still runs unsatisfactory. When I get to about 40 miles an hour, it will start shaking and I have to let off the gas in order for it to stop. However, if I am on the highway and going about 80MPH, it won't shake. What do you think it could be?

Thank You

could be dirty fuel filter or clogged fuel injectors restricting proper fuel flow. is engine light on?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

Yes, the check engine light is on. I already paid the money to get the fuel injectors taken care of. I know the 2 cylinders are misfiring. Could it be an electrical issue? If so, any specifics that you could think of?

since 2 are misfiring and the coil packs are good then it could either be the spark plugs, plug wires or yes even electrical wiring to the coil packs that are not hitting.

I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 2WD with 86000 miles. The check engine light came on and the dealer ran a test and said it was a number 6 misfire. They told me it would cost me $600 and that wasnt icluding the diagnostic check that they already did. The guy told me i needed a new ignition coil. I took it back and started working on it myself. Since it was ready for a tune up, I replaced the first three spark plugs and in order to get to the next three i needed to take off the upper intake, which was interesting seeing I had never done it. But i actually fiigured it out. My actual question is, how do i determine the bad coil? Which one is #6?

in ur case easy..... look up firing order on the website about ur car...swap #6coil with any others ... buy a cheap obd2 code reader from any of these vendor on this site....read ur code and see if the misfire move to another cylinder ...or else ...u gonna need a scope to compare wave forms which is kinda professional approach

As you look at the truck.. drivers side farthest back is #6. Fords go through coils. wouldnt be too surprised if a new one fixes it.You can get an OEM, which I reccommend or save a few bucks and install an aftermarket. Either way you should be able to do it a little cheaper. Good job going after it, now you have a better understanding of your truck

Hello. I had my check engine light come on so I got it diagnosed and the code came up at Cylinder #6 misfiring. I want to know if I should replace just the one ignition coil misfiring and maybe the spark plugs or If I should go ahead and replace the back three coils because of the car already being disassembled to get to them. I really want to know if one coil goes bad, do they all soon after? I just had a front coil replaced three months ago. These are getting to be expensive repairs so I just want to make the right decision.

So we know the coil is for sure bad?you don't have spark on number 6 cylinder?You swapped the coil to a different cylindert o see if the misfire follows?If you only have one bad coil I .Would just change the one that's bad.That's whati would do if it was my car.Also inspect the plugs.

I don't how to tell if the coil is definitely bad. This is what the auto repair place said when they did the check engine light diagnosis. I dont know how much they evaluated the situation but I might have to ask them to change the coil around to be sure.

It hard to say what they tested or didn't test unless they told you.So is the misfire a constant one?like the one cylinder isn't firing at all?

Also you are doing the replacing of the coils or the shop that diagnosedi t?

Yes the engine light is constantly on and sometimes will flash and the car jerks even when in park and very much when it accelerates. The code on the engine light diagnosis came up as PO316 and PO306.

I will have an auto repair place replace the coils as I am not very handy with cars haha

So is the car apart now to accesst the coils?

No it is not. I just wanted an opinion before I took in as to what I should do. The repair place said that basically half the engine has to be disassembled to get to the back coils where this one is misfiring. I just was curious if it could be a different problem other than the coils and if I really needed to replace them all as they recommended.

OK so if the shop that diagnosed the bad coil will stand behind the diagnosis then I would have the coil replaced .It's up to you if you want to replace all three while there in there.If the spark plugs haven't been done in a while now might be the time also.

As far as other possible causes you could have a bad spark plug injector wiring or engine computerWithout knowing what was tested or done it's hard to say.

okay this is actually been very helpful thank you much

Your welcome glad I could help you out

My Escape had the same problems I am reading about - on trip home from upstate NY to LI my Escape felt like it was running on 4 cyl. Check engine light came on. Made it home but next day died and all lights lit up. Got it to a mechanic - said needed to replace all Coils - $900.00. I had it towed again to my mechanic and he said 4 coils are bad but TSB says to replace all and computer may be fried. I now remember that my backup sensor has been going off for no reason - cleaned off sensors. My mechanic can't guarantee that computer doesn't need to be replaced and doesn't want to start work until he finds out if there is a recall or warranty of some sort - since this is a MAJOR issue with 2005, 2006 Escape and Mariners. I am now out of car for the week, can't afford to rent car and pay for repair. I wish I had looked at this website before my warranty ran out - I would have renewed it.
Can you help me? Service Mgr was not available at the 2 Ford dealerships I have had service at.

how do i figure out which ignition coil is bad i already had one replaced and think i have another one going bad
and cant afford to pay a mechanic twice so close together.

How much should it cost to replace #5, and 6 coil as well as plugs.


the guy wants$735.

WARRANTY INFORMATION WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage. IMPORTANT:Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.. 3.0L ENGINE MIL ON WITH DTCS P0351 THROUGH P0356 - MULTIPLE COIL PRIMARY CIRCUIT TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 09-2-6, Date of Issue: February 9, 2009 FORD:2005-2006 Escape MERCURY:2005-2006 Mariner Superceded Bulletin(s): 05-11-1, Date of Issue: June 13, 2005 Related Ref Number(s): 05-11-1, 09-2-6 ARTICLE BEGINNING ISSUE NOTE:This article supersedes TSB 05-11-1 to update the Service Procedure and Part List. Some 2005-2006 Escape/Mariner vehicles equipped with a 3.0L engine, may exhibit a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with two or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) for coil on plug (COP) primary circuit faults (P0351 through P0356). This may be due to the spark plugs causing RF interference with the powertrain control module (PCM), resulting in damage to the PCM and COPs. ACTION Refer to the following Service Procedure to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Connect the Ford Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) service tool to the data link connector (DLC). Identify the vehicle and perform a key on engine running (KOER) test. If only one (1) coil circuit primary DTC (P035x) is present, follow Procedure A. If there are two (2) or more coil circuit primary DTCs (P035x-P035x), follow Procedure B. PROCEDURE A Remove any spark plug and inspect for a 2-digit date code (Fig. 1). If the date code is not present, replace all six (6) spark plugs. Continue with normal Powertrain Controls/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) diagnostics for the DTC. Fig. 1: Date Code On Spark Plug

PROCEDURE B Remove any spark plug and inspect for a 2-digit date code (Fig. 1). If the date code is not present, replace all six (6) spark plugs. Replace all six (6) COPs. Check PCM internal coil driver functionality by running the Oscilloscope Escape PCM Driver Test available on IDS version B58 or later. Using IDS select Toolbox. Oscilloscope tools. Escape PCM Driver Test - follow on screen instructions. NOTE:THE OSCILLOSCOPE TEST TO CHECK PCM INTERNAL COIL DRIVER FUNCTIONALITY MUST BE PERFORMED PRIOR TO REPLACING THE PCM. Replace PCM only if coil driver funcionality fails in the oscilloscope test. Program the passive anti-theft system (PATS) keys if PCM is replaced. If the procedure has not corrected the condition, follow normal PC/ED diagnostics for DTC.

Hi Marty,

The price quoted is about right for a shop. At the shop you will be paying about $150 - $200 per Coil and about $12 - $16 per plug plus the labor.

If you feel you can do the job you can purchase the Coils for about $70 - $90 each and the plug for about $5 - $8 each. Also you should use the OE (Original Equipment) or OEE (Original Equipment Equivalent) on the plugs.


.

Is it showing a check engine light?

If so, a popular auto parts store most likely will code it for free

Write down the exact code numbers and return here........yes, listen to "their" diagnosis......but get the code numbers!!!!

Our '03 escape skipped for a few months before i figured out it was a coil pack

..........the check engine light did not come on for me either

I might still be able to help you find the one causing you grief.....should it not show up in a code

Are you sorta a decent diy mechanic???........a 3.0l may be a little involved, but not hard......should it be one of the 3 in the back

Your turn----talk to me 'fore you jump in!

The medic

I recently had 1 ignition coil and all my spark plugs replaced on my 02 escape. 4 days later the engine was running rough and I had to have another ignition coil replaced. When I got the car back it was running normally, but by the next day it is not running rough but definitely is not as smooth and the steering wheel to vibrate. This is only noticeable when I'm at a stop light or idling. Also the brakes seem to sort of skid or stutter when i brake sometimes (not all the time, and the car still stops ok). When my car was in the shop they said the brakes and everything looked good, but since I had to get 2 ignition coils replaced in a week and its still not running perfectly, I don't really trust their opinion. Could these be signs that my other coils are going to go out soon or something else?

I alway's advise my customers to replace all coils at the same time .. they tend to break down in sequence and your back in the shop every week .. i would have all the coils replaced !

can you replace the #2coil without taking the airintake off

Mitchell doesnt say anythign about removing the air intake system to replace the plugs or coils, so without actually seeing it I would say no.But sometimes they are vague as to actual procedures. If it looks lie it would be easier for you to go that route, I would. Sometimes the engineers expect you to get your hands into places they werent meant to fit

No, unfortunately you can't replace it without pulling the intake manifold. The rear three plugs and coils (1, 2 and 3) are not removable on the 3.0 v6 engine without removing the upper intake manifold plenum.

I did this on my escape this past summer, it really isn't all that difficult and the gaskets are only a few dollars. Buy a Haynes manual. It will take you through it. You do need a torque wrench (in. lbs) and the correct torque spec and sequence (in the manual) to get it back together correctly, but it's not too difficult.

Make sure the engine is completely cool before removing the plugs though. This is extremely important because you can actually twist the aluminum threads (from the head) out with the plug if the engine is warm or hot when you do this according to my repair manual.

Found these video/ resources useful , but not to be taken exact :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypp_P9GeeIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Epl-keSFSFs
I also used this company in part of my isolation :
https://circuitboardmedics.com/2005-2006-ford-mercury-and-mazda-exchange-pcm/

Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)