2002 Mazda Protege Front Rotor Replacement

Tiny
MTRITCHIE1
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
We are replacing pads and rotors on a MAzada Protege ES, have removed the calipers and cannot get the rotors off. I do not see any retainging clips/screws. We have tried heat, PBuster and 3 lb hammer and no movement. What are we missing? Thanks
Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 AT 6:15 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Did you remove the M-spring?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Graphic_602.jpg

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Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
MTRITCHIE1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
M Spring looks like it is associated with pad removal. I am trying to remove the rotor disc. Thanks
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Thursday, July 8th, 2010 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
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If brake pads / calipers are removed then nothing else is holding on the rotor aside from the brake heat that may have it stuck on tight.
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Thursday, July 8th, 2010 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
MTRITCHIE1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
All that is done. So I guess it must be frozen. Any ideas on getting it separated.

Appreciate any insights
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Thursday, July 8th, 2010 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Spray a liberal amount of lubricant on the hub of the rotor where it seats around the hub bearing. Check to see of there are small bolts holes on the hub face of the rotor. If there are, you can try to thread in bolts (usually 2), but the width and thread pitch of the bolts will vary. Once you've found the correct bolt(s), thread them in until they bottom out against the hub. Tighten the bolts alternately about three times each then switch to the other using the ratchet and a socket, and as the bolt tightens, it will pull the rotor away from the hub. If the rotor is "frozen" badly, chances are it will strip out the bolt or bolt hole threads and you'll have to try another method.

Spray more lubricant onto the rotor and hub bearing seam. Strike the rotor with a large rubber mallet. Strike it on the plate of the fin from behind and from the front alternating strikes. You can light the torch and heat the seam and hub face of the rotor and the edge of the hub of the rotor and continue to strike it with the mallet. The hotter the rotor gets, the lesser the chances are of saving it.

Use the slide hammer with a rotor removal adapter. This is an L-shaped adapter that screws onto the end of the slide hammer and sits down behind the rear fin plate of the rotor. Slam the slide hammer and move it often to shock the rotor from the hub and eventually remove it.
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Thursday, July 8th, 2010 AT 1:19 PM

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