1998 Mazda B3000 Belt squeak

KLR_BILL

MEMBER
1998 MAZDA B3000
6 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
12,000 MILES

Hi,

I have a heck of a belt squeal. I changed the serpentine belt and it got no better. Now I'm thinking it's the tensioner.

Is replacement of this tensioner something I can do with reasonable mechanical skills on this model? Or do they need to start pulling half the engine compartment apart to reach in there with the right wrenches?

Thanks!

7 Replies

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Hello

Well, I believe you can do this on your own. How about this. Tell me if this is a SE Cab Plus, or a SE Regular Cab or a SX Regular Cab and I will send you the directions. Look them over, look the truck over and then see what you think.

SPONSORED LINKS

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Monday, November 3rd, 2008 AT 9:43 PM

KLR_BILL

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Hi,

It's the SE Cab Plus. I will be taking this on in any case as the part is on order. Any info. You can provide will be very appreciated. Thanks!

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 7:13 PM

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Hello --

Alright - good on you. . .. . ..it will be fun. . .. . .. . ...

Here you go. . .. . ...

I have provided info on first the belt removal then the tensioner.

Good luck!
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Note: Conditions requiring replacement of the drive belt are excessive cracking or wear, severe glazing or frayed cords. Replace drive belts exhibiting any of these conditions. Minor cracks in the back of the drive belt are considered acceptable.

Remove the drive belt.
(1) Rotate the drive belt tensioner.
(2) Remove the drive belt.

Install in the reverse order of removal.

BELT TENSIONER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Remove the drive belt; refer to Drive Belt Removal/Installation.
Remove the drive belt tensioner bolt and the drive belt tensioner.
Install in the reverse order of removal.

Note the location of the alignment tab.
Position the drive belt tensioner and install the bolt. Tighten torque: 24 - 31 Nm (18 - 22 ft. lbs.)

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 7:36 PM

KLR_BILL

MEMBER
4 POSTS

So let me ask this. This looks like it referes to just the outer part of the assembly. What I had orders was a complete assembly. Do you know for this vehicle if this *is* the whole assembly or if this is just the front peice shown here? Is it more involved to do a "full assembly" part or is this it/all a mechanic would do?

Thanks again.

Was this

answer

helpful?

Yes

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008 AT 8:02 PM

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Hello -- sorry you are having problems with your vehicle.

Yes, it does appear that this is only the pulley wheel. I looked through two different tech manuals to give you a better diagram/pic but neither have what I am looking for. It is kind of crazy. I can give you a pic of the inside timing gear but there is no pic of the tensioner. I also looked at every truck and for some reason only NASSA I guess has access to your particular tensioner.

Does this pic look more like it?

Take a look at the truck. It should be held on with 2 maybe at the most 3 bolts. The big thing is make sure whatever hole you remove the bolts, put them in the same one due to length. I do believe you will be able to do this. Look at the new part, see how it is orientated to the one on the engine. That will give you an idea on what you are working with.

As for your other question, my suggestion is yes, change the entire assembly. You have 120K on the entire assembly so that only makes sense. I have never just changed just the pulley wheel. The option is there obviously in case you burn up a bearing in it etc.

Let me know if you need more help. Send us a pic also if you need to.