Low, rough and surging Idle

2003 FORD TAURUS
167,000 MILES • 3.0L • V6 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
TESPO14
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
When started cold My car DOHC Duratec engine surges between 900 and 1200 rpm, when it warms up the idle sits at about 500-600 rpm. If you slowly apply gas it shutters and the rpm's drop, sometimes it recovers and runs okay above 900 rpm and sometimes it stalls.I had Auto zone put the computer on it and received codes, P0174,P0113, P0102, P0193, Pp0171, P1504, P0156, P1131 and P1151 with a recommendation to change the PCV valve. Thought it to be a long shot but changed it and it did help a little. I have gone over the vacuum lines and can not find anything obvious. I did a check of the MAF and found power and ground where it should be and during the "signal" check found 0.5 volts as a base voltage and when accelerated the voltage fluctuates between the 0.5 volts and 0.7 volts. There is no obvious visual damage to the catalytic converter, and the exhaust does not seem restricted.
The car runs like a champ above 900 rpm, if at a stop, maintaining 900-1000 rpm the car is fine, if allowed to start from a stop at the 500-600 rpm at normal acceleration, the car shutters, hesitates and then takes off, or stalls, but once over 900 rpm it again runs like a champ!
I am suspect of the MAF as the "signal" test should have rising voltage when accelerated, but it was changed six months ago along with wires and plugs for the same type of symptoms and has been running fine. Wondering the MAF could be the issue or if something else can cause the "signal test to fail, and/or can it be a fuel pump putting out low fuel pressure. I do not have a gauge to test the fuel pressure so have not done that yet.
Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated I do not just want to start shotgunning parts.
May 15, 2017 at 3:57 PM
Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.
Advertisement
Avatar
HMAC300
  • AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 48,601 POSTS
with a 171 an 174 codes check fuel pressure with a gauge also clean battery terminal ends and have battery checked for condition including load test then check charging rate most places do for free. you may have some false codes there as there are so many. then clear codes and re-scan. also, check for a vacuum leak like broken/leaking hoses etc.
See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
May 16, 2017 at 6:17 AM
Advertisement