Low idle

Tiny
MUSICGENIUS83
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 270,000 MILES
I bought this car about 2 years ago. I spent about six months replacing all kinds of things on it and for the last 18 months it's been driving perfect. I can go on long trips with the A/C blasting and it gets on the freeway very quickly. Nothing ever happens and it runs great all about a week ago; I started my car and let it warm up like I always do and the RPM's were where they always have been between 750 + 950 I got on the freeway Joe for about 5 minutes to the store and when I got out of the store when I turned it over in immediately clocked out and shut off. I restarted it four times and it did the same thing; it felt like a lawn mower that would kick over but then it puttered and I doubt in about 3 seconds. So I waited for about 10 minutes and I started it and it finally started I drove it back home and I haven't taken it anywhere since because now when I started in the driveway the idle after warming up seems to want to stay at 400 RPM. It hasn't shut off since the first time and I've never had a problem with it shaking or taking the gas. There's no gas smell there's no check engine lights, no codes everything seems to be perfectly fine except that I can't get it to go over the 400 RPM's. It almost sounds like it's not even running because it's so quiet I unplugged the IAC valve and the throttle went erratic up and down. So I know that was working. I have clean the throttle body two or three times over the past year. My air filter is not dirty and there are no vacuum or evap leaks. I have new spark plugs and starter and just about everything under the hood is new. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Monday, June 15th, 2020 AT 8:12 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

Disconnecting the IAC like that tested nothing. It is supposed to change the idle when that happens.

It could be the IAC as that is its job. It is supposed to control the idle based on load.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Did you clean the bore in the throttle body where the IAC goes? If there are any restrictions in the throttle body, it will do this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Also, make sure the coolant level is correct. Low coolant level will affect the operation of the valve.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 16th, 2020 AT 5:10 AM
Tiny
MUSICGENIUS83
  • MEMBER
  • 29 POSTS
Okay. Yes cleaned the bore hole, I removed the IAC valve as well as the EGR valve, cleaned them both with carburetor spray (very gunky and filthy), put them back on with new gaskets. Car worked great for half the day, then started going to low idle and shaking at stop sign. Got it back home and it kept dropping idle and shook about to die but came back up, it's like every 20 seconds it drops and shakes like it about to stop then re turns to idle. It never surges just drops. Also it is very quiet like it's not even on or low power.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, June 22nd, 2020 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Do you have a scan tool that can read long term trim data?

You were in the right area as after you did those changes, it worked. I am wondering if either the valve is partially open or the throttle body is bad.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 4:29 AM
Tiny
MUSICGENIUS83
  • MEMBER
  • 29 POSTS
Okay, so it seems my issue has been solved for now. I put a new EGR valve on there and it didn't seem to fix it so I went with the MAP sensor and as soon as I replaced that I had no problems with the idle or having it shut off, but now I ran into another problem; at some point my fans stopped coming on cool off the engine they only come on when I have the air conditioning on normally the fans pop on and off every couple minutes even at idle to cool off the engine when the A/C is off. I have a new thermostat and a new radiator and I drained and refilled the coolant with new coolant. I had replaced the fan sensor I believe it's called the thermal fan switch or sensor with no luck. So I've ordered a coolant temperature sensor hoping because those two sensors work together that may be the coolant temperature sensor isn't sending the right signal to the fan sensor. I just wanted to know if I'm in the right area of what I'm doing. I took it on the freeway and drove it around a few blocks purposely trying to get it hot and the fans won't come on even when it's hot and at temperature.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, July 3rd, 2020 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, site rules are we can deal with one issue per question.

Please go back and start a new question and we will be glad to help you with the fan issue.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, July 3rd, 2020 AT 5:33 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links