Loud engine when accelerating

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Was the noise present prior to replacement of the fan? Also, could the noise be described as a roar or sound like a jet? Now, for the ticking, does it seem to be coming from the starter?

If you could, record the sounds you hear and upload them so I can hear them.

Joe

Hi:

I will tell you that a new fan clutch can cause the noise to be much louder. I don't know where you are, so I don't know the temps you are in.

I replaced a fan clutch on an 07 with the 3.7L and when the vehicle is first started, it is loud as heck, but goes away within 30 seconds to a minute. Now, when it's really hot and the under hood temp is really hot, the fan will fully engage and it will remain loud until the temp is lowered. However, here in PA, the temps are cold, so the noise doesn't last.

Has the check engine light staying on or is there anything that changes the sound?

Welcome back.

That makes it sound like a transmission issue, but keep in mind, the load is removed from the engine and the RPM's change. Is it possible for you to record the sound and upload it for me to hear?

Joe

Welcome back:

If the battery is good and nothing is happening, I would first check the basics. Check the starter fuse and relay. They are located in the power distribution box under the hood. I have attached a few pics. The relay can be switched with a different relay in the box that has the same part number. If you can't locate one, here is a link that shows how to check a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here are a few links that show how to use the tools needed to check the relay this way:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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If the relay doesn't make a difference, check the starter fuse. See the attached pictures for location. It is also in the under hood fuse box.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

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If the fuse and relay are good, then I need you to check if there is power to the starter solenoid. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Now, if you have power to the smaller wire on the solenoid as described in the aforementioned link and the starter has 12v direct from the battery at all times (the bigger wire on the starter), the starter is bad.

Here is a link that shows how in general to replace a starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Here are specific directions for replacement of the starter. The remaining pictures correlate with these directions.

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3.7/4.7L Starter Removal

Picture 6

1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Note: If equipped with 4WD, remove front drive shaft.
4. Note: If equipped with 4WD and certain transmissions, a support bracket is used between front axle and side of transmission. Remove 2 support bracket bolts at transmission. Pry support bracket slightly to gain access to lower starter mounting bolt.
5. Remove two bolts (3) if equipped with an automatic transmission.
6. Move starter motor (4) towards front of vehicle far enough for nose of starter pinion housing to clear housing. Always support starter motor during this process, do not let starter motor hang from wire harness.
7. Tilt nose downwards and lower starter motor far enough to access and remove nut (2) that secures battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet (1) to solenoid battery terminal stud. Do not let starter motor hang from wire harness.
8. Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet (5) from solenoid battery terminal stud.
9. Disconnect battery positive cable wire harness connector from solenoid terminal connector receptacle.
10. Remove starter motor.

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Starter installation

3.7/ 4.7L

Picture 6

1. Connect solenoid wire to starter motor (snaps on).
2. Position battery cable (1) to solenoid stud. Install and tighten battery cable eyelet nut (2). Torque nut to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Do not allow starter motor to hang from wire harness.
3. Position starter motor (4) to transmission.
4. If equipped with automatic transmission, slide cooler tube bracket into position.
5. Install and tighten both bolts (3). Torque bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
6. Note: If equipped with 4WD and certain transmissions, a support bracket is used between front axle and side of transmission. Install 2 support bracket bolts at transmission.
7. Note: If equipped with 4WD, install front drive shaft.
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Connect negative battery cable.

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Let me know the results you find. If there is no power to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position, we need to start breaking down wiring schematics to determine what could be the cause.

I hope this helps. Again, let me know what you find.

Joe

Welcome back:
That could be an issue. What I suggest is to see if that procedure works again if the issue reoccurs.

As far as what you said, do you mean the starter relay and not the solenoid? The solenoid is on the starter. That is where the wires connect to. The relay is located in the underhood power distribution box. It is relay number 8. I attached a picture for you to see.

Let me know what happens.

Joe