Transmission linkage wouldn’t go into gear?

So, it sounds like the cable ends fell off or were not connected correctly. Here is what it looks like under the plate and how the cables connect to the transmission. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response so I can check it out.

On the second image where it shows where the shifter cables connect to on top of transmission. Thats where the mechanic had taken the cables by prying it off and then torx sockets and then took that top portion with him and didn’t see what he had replaced or fixed?

How does it look now, can you upload an image so I can see it?

I have a 40 torx looks like six or seven to take that plate off then can see what he had done because it went into gears as i was in driveway but as I backed it out of the driveway to test it out around the block. Whatever came undone I couldn’t get it in any gear

Got the bolts off but will have to use a pry to get the plate off. From the looks of it off hand he may have use loc-tite by the looks by the seam of the plate.

It is difficult to tell what is going on here, so do the cables fall off or the bolt comes loose?

The image is sideways where the red craftsman ratchet is on. There was five bolts that I had to take off in order for me to remove the top. Which holds the mechanism where the two cables snap onto. I never saw what he did or what piece he found for it. I can’t get a hold of the guy he said he’s already booked for the next several months.

I know it’s a f35 transmission LS coupe 2008 ecotec 2.2 liter

That’s the item in green. He removed the five bolts and took the highlighted green and the piece thats on top of the green area where the shifting cables snap onto. I didn’t see what he had done just when I was replacing my grounds in the engine area. That’s when I noticed he had returned by seeing that he bolted the part he had brought with him to do what I don’t know? Even I’m still looking up diagrams for the f35 transmission.

You may have to zoom in its part number 1 upper left. That’s what he took with him when he removed the five bolts that whole piece labeled #1

Alright, I see. so the internals of the transmission are causing the issue. The cables are working correctly?. So if one part of the gear set is not right, or part of them is missing or worn out the gear shifting will be impaired. It might be easier to find the used transmission and get the part out of it or just install the used transmission.

Once I pry that top off to get inside the internals to see what it’s thats worn and needed replacement? I was able to get into 1st, 2nd 4th gear it would make the grinding noise for 3rd and wouldn’t even catch for 5th like nothing was there.

I figured I try getting new shifter cables since the bushings on the cables are the original and bushings on those can only be replaced as the whole cable. I went to that link you sent but it was out of stock.

Is there any diagrams for the internals? So I know what’s going when I take the plate off.

Yes, here is an exploded view of the shifter cables. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes

I will take a picture of it when I pull that plate off. I already got the five bolts out using the #40torx socket.

Yep, an image will help, please let me know, I want to get this fixed for you.

Alright this is what it looks like but I’m sure if I need the internals out I need to put the parts back so I can get the rod out?

Guess he used a lot of loc-tite

The rod is still in the transmission

Just use some parts cleaner to get the loc tite off the other piece.

I see that metallic little rod is what needs to go throw the center piece in order for it to turn when I am shifting. That metal piece was not all the way through there’s no way that guy was able to push it through even with a little hammer he would need to jack the car up and remove the front driver side tire to maybe get a better swing of the hammer to tap that piece in. Well I guess I can tow it to a transmission shop that was recommended down the road and they can see thats what needs to get in.

I had that lock for my tool box to make sure I made room so the rod can go up the shifter assembly

Yes, that pin is needed to move the selector shaft. I think you found the problem, thanks for the images.

Now if I am able to get that tapped all the way in? Is there anything I can use to make sure it doesn’t back itself out?

Just make sure it is a good press fit and you should be okay and it should be all fixed. I have seen people "tac" weld it as well if needed.

Thank you again Ken and last thing from the previous images with I’m guessing the loc-tite that was all over the bottom of the gear housing. Do I need a gasket maker sealant. There wasn’t any stuff to begin with and if you can tell me the torque specs for those five torx bolts.

Yes, I would clean that off the best you can and use silicone rubber sealant.

Ha, guess it wasn’t loc-tite it was either red gasket maker high temp or automatic transmission gasket maker? Would either be okay? High temp gasket maker or black since its also oil resistant? Stick to the transmission gasket maker?

I think either would be okay.

Thank you, I will let you know when I finish.

Sounds good

So far got the plate where it goes over the gear shaft and got the shifter cables ends sanded down so it will fit when putting them through the gear shifter in the car center console. Got them to get back on the bracket that holds the two cables in the engine area. Now trying to get that piece that has the rolled pin down while having the smaller arm moved so I can push it down where I see the hole on the gear shaft but its being stubborn. SoOo close to finally finishing and this. I will take a picture.

The neutral lock i have where the shifter in the car is

I would disconnect the cables to rotate the arm into position and then push the roll pin in and then reconnect the cables.

The ends of the shifter cables are off and was able to get that piece but going to have to take it off just to make sure I have it lined up to the hole then press it with the biggest pliers I got.

Yep, that should work. I would try to get the pin pressed in without the cables on it, then you can see if the cable is off and can make an adjustment or the cable to fit it perfectly.