Engine misfire?

Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,853 POSTS
Sure it could if the compression is below like 90 psi but the misfire on that cylinder would most likely be there all the time and not get better over 40 mph.
I think you should first try to narrow it down to which cylinders are misfiring, when and then why.
You should start with removing all the spark plugs, remember where they came from and see/smell if any smell like gasoline or motor oil or if any have motor oil, gasoline or even coolant on them. If so, that is probably the cylinder that is misfiring.
Was the P0300 the only code?
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Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 9:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYMOND DAVIS
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  • 2 POSTS
Yes p 300 was the only code.
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Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 9:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, let me know after you remove the spark plugs and see/smell what they are like and if you do have a compression tester, go ahead and test all of the cylinders.
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Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 9:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEHLSOT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
My Towncar is missing on #1 & 5 cylinders. I had a bad tank of gas. Drained the gas put new in and have had this problem. The shop says it has no compression on 1 & 5. It was dripping some water and vapor from the exhaust. Did not have any antifreeze in it. Any thoughts?
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Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 9:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKMAR
  • MECHANIC
  • 170 POSTS
If you are in a warm climate area such as Florida or any other states where freezing temperatures do not take place you do not need antifreeze .. however antifreeze mixed 50/50 is better for your complete cooling system than pure water.
126,000 miles on a 4.6L V8 is really not bad at all.
No compression on cylinders 1 & 5 could possibly be bad exhaust valves on #1 and#5. If you hear a popping sound from within the engine it very well could be a intake valve.
If you hear a popping sound from your exhaust it very well could be a exhaust valve.
If you are seeing white steam coming out of you exhaust you could have a cracked head gasket.

The 4.6L Firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 so that would possibly mean both head gaskets are bad because cylinder 1 (Standing in front of vehicle looking toward the windshield is on your "left side" of the engine and cylinder 5 (Standing in front of vehicle looking toward the windshield is on your "right side" of the engine.
(See Diagram Below)


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/433905_46L_firing_order_1.gif


Usually the crack in the head gasket would be right above or close to a specific cylinder where the coolant can enter and create steam when burned up by combustion, and exit through the exhaust.
I strongly feel the engine with 126,000 miles does not have bad head gaskets unless you overheated the engine and continued driving it.
I would advise you find another shop and see if they tell you there is no compression in cylinders #1 and #5.
Usually a misfire is often solved by cleaning the M.A.F. (Max Air Flow) Sensor with spray Electronics or carb cleaning solution. Mak sure it is completely dry before putting it back on. Hopefully that will solve the problem of #1 and #5 misfire.
Good Luck;
Rick
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+6
Saturday, December 19th, 2020 AT 9:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WAKEUPARTISTSOFOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
EASY FIX!

So I've had the problem myself in the past and there's often a simple solution that MANY are strangely enough overlooking. If any work was recently performed on the car or if the battery went dead/was changed, then an idle relearn procedure MUST be performed. If this is not performed A Lean Bank 2 trouble code will emerge.

1. First begin by draining the PCM capacitors of any learned values via disconnecting the wire harness from the negative terminal, placing an insulating rag between it and the negative battery terminal, then applying a jumper wire to the positive lead battery terminal and the other end of the jumper wire to that of the wire harness otherwise connected to the negative battery terminal.

2. Allow about a minute or so for the draining procedure to complete, then remove the jumper wire first from the negative wiring harness and then the positive battery terminal.

3. Then replace negative/ground wire harness to the negative battery terminal to reestablish completion of the normal car electrical circuit.

4. Make sure all accessory items (head lamps/air conditioning/etc.) Are off and place your key in the ignition.

5. Turn the key to the ON position and wait for your dash indicator lamps to clear, then start the ignition on the car.

6. Allow the car to idle from a cold start until it's fully warmed up. Then allow another 5-10min for the PCM to fully calibrate and store the throttle position at idle (a total of 15-20 min altogether (10min from ignition start + 5-10min post warm up =15-20min total).

7. Once these parameters have been properly stored within the PCM drive your car normally on the road for a while that it might calibrate the full range (throttle position at various accelerations and speeds + vital gear shifting points) of key throttle points.
(*note: I'd recommend clearing the code before attempting this, though not wholly necessary.)
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Wednesday, November 2nd, 2022 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Thank you for that information. I feel it will help others in the future.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, November 2nd, 2022 AT 3:21 PM

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