Leak around Power Steering hoses, how to troubleshoot?

Tiny
YOURMINKY
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
I have a Power Steering fluid leak on my 2000 Hyundai Elantra. I am having a hard time figuring out if it is leaking from high- or low-pressure side hoses or it's sipping out of the pump. The Power Steering fluid is everywhere, including the hood, because it got on the serpentine belt. My current Power Steering pump is an aftermarket item installed several years ago. BTW, it also had a very slow and very minor engine oil leak in the past which is making the troubleshooting part harder. How can I troubleshoot and fix it? Advanced thanks for your help.
Saturday, August 5th, 2023 AT 1:09 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Hi,

If there is fluid all over the place, the best thing to do is clean everything off. Once you do that, start the engine and turn the steering to pressurize the system and recheck to see if you can tell where it is coming from.

If that doesn't help, you can get a dye to place in the system and then using a blacklight, trace where it is coming from.

The idea that it is leaking that much and it is everywhere leads me to think it is a high-pressure line. The low-pressure side is simply a return and has little pressure in it.

Wipe things down the best you can and then try what I mentioned. Also, here is a link you may find of interest:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-problems

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, August 5th, 2023 AT 9:21 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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Found the aggressive Power Steering fluid leak. It's on the high-pressure line. A photo is attached that shows the joint where it is leaking from.
How can I fix this? Is there a way to temporarily stop the leak with epoxy or something like that until I get the part and actually replace the line/hose?
Now, the belts are chirping because they are soaked in Power Steering fluid. Is there a good video on how to clean the belts easily without taking everything apart? Thanks.
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Friday, August 18th, 2023 AT 12:02 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Yep, I see the problem as well. As far as a repair, there really isn't one. The pressure is too high to use a sealant. In general, the pressure in the high-pressure power steering hose can range from around 1,000 to 1,500 psi. The hose needs to be replaced.

As far as the belt is concerned, I don't have a video. However, I would recommend removing the belt and first using a degreaser to clean all the pulleys. You could use an engine degreaser or even something like brake cleaner. Just avoid spraying it into any of the belt-driven accessories. Also, you could use something like a toothbrush to get into the pulley grooves.

Once that is done, wipe the belt itself with a cloth to remove excessive fluid. Then, take a mild detergent and water and try to get the fluid off. If the belt is older, it may be a good time to replace it.

I don't know if you need them, but I attached the directions specific to this vehicle for replacing the p/s high-pressure hose.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, August 18th, 2023 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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Thanks for the info. Since the leak is coming from the hose restriction point where the metal is crimped (red-circled @ photo), I am thinking about using superglue first and then top it off with silicone RTV until I get a chance to buy and replace the part.
Regarding the part, there are 2 parts available. #1 option is the pressure line that runs from the top of the PS pump down to hose mounting clamp, halfway to the gear box. Option #2 has the aforementioned pressure line, which runs from the top of the PS pump, but this one goes all the way to the gear box, #2 option is twice as long as #1 option. Since the leak is from the red-circled restriction crimp point on the photo, should I just replace the first half of this line (option #1)?
What size crow-foot AKA line-wrench do I need to get this job done? Do I must use a crow-foot AKA line-wrench?
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Saturday, August 19th, 2023 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If you have a line wrench, that is what I would suggest. There will be less chance of it stripping. As far as the hose, if it was me, I would replace the entire thing simply because if the first one failed, the second is likely not far behind.

However, are you sure yours is a two-piece? I don't recall a union.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, August 19th, 2023 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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I just checked, and it is a 2-piece line. The 2nd piece that runs from the mounting clamp to the gear box is all metal and looked like a brake line and is in good shape. According to the directions you posted, it seems like changing half of the line would be easier. Let me know what you think. Thanks.
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Sunday, August 20th, 2023 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Absolutely. If the steel line is in good condition, keep it. A long time ago I was taught if it isn't broken, don't fix it. LOL If your luck is like mine, you'll replace it, and it will start leaking. LOL

Let me know how things turn out for you or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, August 21st, 2023 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
  • MEMBER
  • 106 POSTS
I stopped driving the Hyundai because of the leak. Now, because of the holidays, I have to fix it.

One of the how-to screenshots you uploaded states, "White line". What is that white line for?

I tried to unscrew the 14mm fitting with a line wrench, located half-way, where the upper rubber tube attaches to the lower metal tube. That way I'd have to only replace the upper part of the hose which is easy to reach and work with. But it started to round off, so I stopped.

I bought some 17mm line wrenches and tried to unscrew the 17mm tube fitting at the gear box from underneath. Again, I could not rotate it. I am afraid if I use a lever, I might round it off. I saw a YouTube video where the mechanic used a pipe cutter and cut the tube at the gear box and used a regular 17mm socket to unscrew the fitting. The regular household plumbing copper pipe cutter I have is too big and may not fit because there are other tubes right next to the PS tube. Do you have any suggestions? Should I use a lever or buy a tiny pipe cutter? BTW, I lubricated the joints with penetrating oil mixed with transmission fluid overnight.

I am also a little nervous, if I cut off the tube at the gear box and fail to unscrew the fitting, the car won't be drivable. What are the consequences?

Thank you.
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2023 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

As far as the white lines, there will be one on the fitting and one on the steel line that should be aligned.

As far as cutting the pipe is concerned, if you are replacing it, that would be okay to do. Then you should be able to get a good 6-point socket on the nut to loosen it.

However, before going to that extent, I would try to loosen it first. If it starts to strip, then we can cut things. Also, I have used a product called freeze-off. It is designed to cause the temp to drop when it is sprayed on a bolt. When that happens, the steel contracts and if there is corrosion or rust stopping it from moving, it will loosen it. If you want to try it, I attached a pic below of what I'm referring to. Follow the directions indicated. I can't guarantee it, but it has helped me many times in the past.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Wednesday, November 22nd, 2023 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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Thanks for the info.
The replacement part I bought does not have any white lines. The upper and lower hoses were already very tightly screwed together when they arrived.
I used car ramps and tried to reach the gearbox from the bottom. There are two fittings so close that my line wrench won't fit in the small gap between the two at the gearbox junction. I am attaching photos. It was also impossible to see through the other parts what I was doing from the bottom, so I had to do everything by touch. I will try to reach from the top tomorrow, which requires removing the air intake hose assembly.
Can you please point me to a good video that shows how to remove the air intake hose assembly properly? I searched YouTube, did not find any for my model.
What should I do if I cannot fit the line wrench between the 2 fittings from the top?
I did not buy the Freeze-Off product. I saw on YouTube videos that people use handheld propane torch to heat the junctions. I already have a small propane torch. Can heating the gearbox help?
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Wednesday, November 29th, 2023 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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I removed the air intake hose assembly, it was easy. Now I can reach the gearbox junction from the top, but the line wrench does not have any room to fit. Photos attached. Is there a trick?
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Thursday, November 30th, 2023 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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Please see the photo. I was able to loosen the #2 fastener at the gearbox. Should I unscrew #2 all the way and then use the line wrench to loosen #1 (the PS line) so it will fit? Any risk in doing so? What is #2 for and what kind of fluid will come out of it? Thanks in advance.
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Thursday, November 30th, 2023 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

You should be fine removing the other line. That should be the return line. Power steering fluid will come out of it.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, November 30th, 2023 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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  • 106 POSTS
Removed the lines. 3 questions before installing the replacement part.
1. Please see the photo. What is this exposed electrical connector right next to the air intake? I don't think it was connected to anything but I'm not 100% sure.
2. Should I use red thread locker when putting everything back?
3. My owner's manual says PSF-3 power steering fluid should be used. But I cannot find any. What can I use? Would regular ATF work?
Advanced thanks.
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Friday, December 1st, 2023 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

The PSF3 isn't even offered in the US. You can use standard power steering fluid from the parts store. If they have an Asian version, go with that. If they don't, use what they offer. It should be fine.

A thread locker would be fine. As far as the connector is concerned, I looked through the manuals because I don't recognize it. Does it appear to have ever had a connector? Since it is on the throttle body, I thought it was a position sensor, but that sensor has either a three or four-pin connector. Let me know.

Also, take a pic of the connector from the side so I can see what the pin is connected to.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, December 1st, 2023 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
  • MEMBER
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I heard that removing red thread locker requires heating the joint after it hardens. If I let the thread locker harden, which it does in 10 minutes, and then later find a leak at the joint, won't it be difficult to tighten it further?
Here are 2 photos of the mystery connector from the side.
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Friday, December 1st, 2023 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Hi,

As far as using Loctite, you shouldn't have any trouble. You should be able to turn things. It may feel a little tighter, but it will go.

I finally figured out what that part is on the throttle body. I had to look on a 2001 model year, so I suspect your vehicle was a late production year vehicle.

It is an idle switch for a car with an automatic. I suspect they started using the new design throttle body a little early and it wasn't needed. Chances are that is why it appears nothing was ever connected to it and you don't remember a wire going to it. (See pics)

Pic 1 shows the design for the 1999 and 2000 model-year vehicle. Pic 2 is the 2001 model year.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2023 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
  • MEMBER
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Thanks for solving the mystery. In case something was attached to the mystery connector, and I didn't notice, and accidentally knocked it off, the car would probably tell me what's up by throwing an error code and turning on the MIL. Yes, it was a late year model and I purchased it brand new exactly 23 years ago.
I did not put everything back together yet. I wanted to make sure that Loctite was okay to use. I'll be using 242 blue Loctite instead of the red.
I called the local auto parts stores regarding PSF3. One of them told me his store's system says it is okay to use Dex III ATF as Power Steering fluid for 2000 Elantra. They also have regular Power Steering fluid that should be compatible. The PS fluid that claims to be compatible with all Asian cars, which includes Toyota, is just Dex III according to one store. The Asian compatible PS fluid is also $18 for a quart. If they are rebranding Dex III as Asian compatible PS fluid and charging 3 times more, I don't want to fall for that gimmick. Do you think using $6/quart Dex III would be okay as one auto parts store claims?
Thanks in advance.
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2023 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I do feel that would be okay. It shouldn't hurt anything.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, December 2nd, 2023 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
YOURMINKY
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I put everything back together. No more leaks. Thanks for your help.
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Sunday, December 3rd, 2023 AT 9:28 PM

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