Knocking

Tiny
GRADY PAYNE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 193,000 MILES
My son ran van with low oil. It started knocking very loud. I dropped oil pan seen that one of the bearings had spun, so I replaced it, put back together, but it still has a low knocking noise. How can I fix the problem.
Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 2:17 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,858 POSTS
If the bearing was chewed up, so was the crankshaft journal. Did you measure the clearance with the new bearing installed? Typically this repair requires a new or remanufactured crankshaft.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
GRADY PAYNE
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  • 10 POSTS
Did not measure but everything looked the same. I looked the crank over with a magnifying glass for any scaring and didnt see anything
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 3:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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The clearance needs to be checked with "Plasti-Gauge". You can get that at any engine machine shop, and at most auto parts stores. Check all the rod bearings and the main bearings. The clearances are real tight compared to years ago. The main bearings call for.0005" to.0022", and the rod bearings call for.0008" to.0026".

Consider running the engine with tension relieved on the serpentine belt, or just remove the belt. If the knock is gone, it is being caused by the belt pulling up on the snout of the crankshaft, then the two front connecting rods push it down when those cylinders fire. To get to the connecting rod journals, the oil first has to go through the main bearings. That excessive clearance on top of the front may bearing may not show up when measuring it with Plasti-Gauge. Excessive clearance in a main bearing will reduce oil flow to its two rod bearings.

You might try a thicker oil to see if the knock subsides and the engine survives. I use 10W-40 in all of my Grand Caravans, even when it is below zero in winter. One had a knock loud enough that people got out of my way in parking lots for fear of being hit by falling parts, but it was not a rod knock. The main and rod bearings were all perfect, but I replaced them anyway. It did not solve the problem, but that engine lasted 420,000 miles with that knock.

Another one needed a rebuilt crankshaft. That only cost $100.00, and I had my students pull the engine and do the repairs. Total cost of the entire rebuild was less than $300.00 for all the parts, but that was a 3.0L.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
GRADY PAYNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thank you I will take belt off and see if noise is there. Plus I will use a thicker oil as well. If I have any more questions I will get back with you.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
GRADY PAYNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I was looking at the pulley of crankshaft and noticed it has a wobble to it.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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Dandy. That is an easier repair than engine bearings. The pulley is cast as part of the outer ring that is bonded to the center hub. Together that is the vibration damper/harmonic balancer. It can cause a knocking noise when the bond breaks, but that is more likely to occur when the pulley is that outer ring, vs. A stamped steel pulley that is bolted to the center hub.

Auto parts stores have large books that list nothing but replacement vibration dampers for almost any engine.
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+1
Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
GRADY PAYNE
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  • 10 POSTS
Thank you.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 6:32 PM

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