The clearance needs to be checked with "Plasti-Gauge". You can get that at any engine machine shop, and at most auto parts stores. Check all the rod bearings and the main bearings. The clearances are real tight compared to years ago. The main bearings call for.0005" to.0022", and the rod bearings call for.0008" to.0026".
Consider running the engine with tension relieved on the serpentine belt, or just remove the belt. If the knock is gone, it is being caused by the belt pulling up on the snout of the crankshaft, then the two front connecting rods push it down when those cylinders fire. To get to the connecting rod journals, the oil first has to go through the main bearings. That excessive clearance on top of the front may bearing may not show up when measuring it with Plasti-Gauge. Excessive clearance in a main bearing will reduce oil flow to its two rod bearings.
You might try a thicker oil to see if the knock subsides and the engine survives. I use 10W-40 in all of my Grand Caravans, even when it is below zero in winter. One had a knock loud enough that people got out of my way in parking lots for fear of being hit by falling parts, but it was not a rod knock. The main and rod bearings were all perfect, but I replaced them anyway. It did not solve the problem, but that engine lasted 420,000 miles with that knock.
Another one needed a rebuilt crankshaft. That only cost $100.00, and I had my students pull the engine and do the repairs. Total cost of the entire rebuild was less than $300.00 for all the parts, but that was a 3.0L.
Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 3:31 PM