1999 Jeep TJ Clutch engages at top of pedal with little or

TERRY JANDA

MEMBER
1999 JEEP WRANGLER TJ
6 CYL
4WD
MANUAL
92,000 MILES

I had the clutch (KIT) replaced six months ago. It was fine for about a week. It engaged about mid pedal. I was driving down the freeway and when I stopped the clutch started to engage at the top. Took Jeep back and had the mechanic look at it. They said nothing was wrong. They had replaced the slave cylinder also. The clutch actually engages way at the top. About inch and a half to two inch from when pedal is depressed. Gas milage has gone way down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Iknew I should have down it myself.

1 Reply

CJ MEDEVAC

MECHANIC
11,005 POSTS

See my profile......Mega Experienced, CJ Guy.....I do not know your rig...........But...

I prefer my CJ pedal----beginning disengagement about 1 inch down from the top.........Even the service manual calls, at the top correct adjustment

My CJ 5 has a Mechanical Clutch...not hydraulic

My clutch linkage is adjustable, the adjustment is at the clutch arm.....I can raise and lower the pedal there

There are 3 reasons I prefer it HIGH:

1) I can immediatly sense any change in the pedal height.....no guessing, something is wrong with my linkage. (I have made a REALLY COOL MODIFICATION TO MY LINKAGE- no more ROD WEAR)

2) With plenty of disengagement at the bottom, a "slip" or a "fatigued" foot or leg does not accidentally ENGAGE Mr. Clutch.

3) On my "CJ 5" Should the springs at the clutch arm, "take missing", Tension from the high pedal (removing system slack) will keep the rod tightly seated in the clutch arm. Thus the rod will not fall and "Dangle" Rendering my pedal USELESS.

Like I said, I do not know your rig----I will show you my adjustment (you may have something similar)

To me, if you shorten this adjustment (basically making the throw rod shorter), you are creating slack between a SOLID HYDRAULIC SYSTEM and the Mechanical Clutch arm........If yours is like a CJ, the rod COULD fall out of place.

I would insure you have A little Slack at the top---before disengagement starts.........Otherwise it would (own its own) Be like constantly "RIDING THE CLUTCH PEDAL" or constantly partially disengaging the clutch (SLIPPING)

Heres my pics (made for a CJ answer) Maybe you can see how my adjustment works........My "SLAVE" is all of the bars and pivots required to connect my pedal to the clutch arm

Way over on the left, stud w/ nut...thats where my Mechanicals end, the rod that stud attaches to (cannot see, but is parrallel to the ground) PUSHES straight back to the CLUTCH ARM (about a 5 inch rod).......On yours (probably) that stud w/ nut, would be the END OF YOUR SLAVE CYLINDER---with a rod projecting to the clutch arm (Speculating, I do not know your rig)........The vertical rod on the right, goes to my pedal

Those 2 springs hold my rod from falling out of the spoon shaped end of my clutch arm......wrenches shown, how to adjust a Mechanical CJ system....arm is in the shadow

Wrenches have not moved---Clutch arm is about an inch above the top wrenchthis is lying on my back, shooting straight up.

Same shot, no wrenches

If you want me to, I can try to assist you more with general questions......but I do not know your EXACT SETUP....never seen it.

As for poor milage....check your codes, Autozone or Advance Auto does it for FREE!!!.....If the light isn't on, check to see if it works during start up.....they may can find a stored code if the light is off.............A manual can give you good tips on good milage.

You need a Repair Manual!...always in your rig for an emergency!

If I helped, See "FEEDBACK".

Please respond below, with good news! (reply to question)

I just now noticed, when you submitted this, SORRY, I usually stay in the CJ forums.

This is my HOBBY...Not signed up for pay here. Member like you....Just trying to help!

No CJs to fix, so I wandered around, to find something I might be CAPABLE of helping with.......once again....SORRY!

The Medic