1981 Jeep CJ7

OK JEEP FELLER (like me) See my profile

Jeeps designed for water, I do not think you have hurt the tranny itself, or the transfer case.

I need a little more info, answer the following:

Rolls in gear, like not catching. Does that mean it rolls as if its out of gear?

Did you pressure was up inside the BELLHOUSING?

(if so, maybe clutch disc got real wet and maybe oil on it too)

Will it go in gear and drive? (How does it act?)

Did you by chance, BLOW YOUR TRANSFER CASE (Linkage) SHIFTER INTO NEUTRAL? (Shift back into 2 HIGH, inside your rig)

Did you maybe BLOW LINKAGE APART? (Via missing bolts/worn pivots, ETC.)

Give me some answers, willing to help alot, see "1985 Jeep CJ 7 Stalls When Hot" (14 responses, other CJ 5/7 Posts) several below yours, you will see the extent I will go!

Love, Turddog

I am assuming you mean: The stick will not move from neutral? Stuck in a gear (won't move from it?)

Did you investigate transfer case shifting ability?

Pushing a little and trying to shift, does that work?

Remove Shifter floor plate (takes a few minutes) See if you trhu some mud/gravel into the top of the tranny tower (where stick goes in)

Presently 11:20 PM EST, I am in my garage, replacing the dimmer switch connector on my '46 Willys (typical Jeep Lights flashing on and off at night)

I will be here for you for a while,

Keep info coming

Love, Turddog

Still nothing about TRANSFER CASE SHIFTER?

In the floor beside your gearshift is a smaller shifter, It has 4 positions----2 LOW---NEUTRAL---2 HIGH (what you should "NORMALLY" be in, if all stuff is working right) ----4 HIGH. YOU SHOULD HAVE A DANA 300 TRANSFER CASE (300 pattern slips my mind)

I have the next one down in my '77, its a MODEL 20, my pattern is as I descibed to you above, with 2 LOW being nearest the rear of the Jeep----YOUR KNOB will verify YOUR PATTERN (unless its missing).I would go across the street and look at Ron's '83. Probably get shot this late!

Try shifting the transfer case, look under it for loose linkages, GET A MANUAL!---So you know what stuff is supposed to look like!

As far as no 4X4, you may be missing front driveshaft, locking hubs, broke transfer case, or transfer case linkage loose or missing---to name a few EZ ones.

YOUR TURN!

Love, Turddog

My project is done---works like it did 20 years ago when I built it from scratch.

Investigate what you are missing 4X4 wise, If you still have rear drive shaft---you more than likely need to be in "2 HIGH"

Transfer cases are sometimes hard to shift, sometimes motion with Jeep might help it or just a good hard push.

I will continue to assist you, as long as you keep replying here. Sometimes I may not respond this quickly, since I do other stuff too. BUT I WILL RESPOND. Can make you Mechanical pics of my Jeep ('77 not '46) and of Ron's '83 (like yours) Tell me what you want a Pic of. Try to get it soon!

Am sending you a PM (private message, within 10 minutes) [see index to get it] Let me know there, if you want to see my Albums of Jeep Modifications.

Love, Turddog

Sorta jumped out of bed wiith a possible explanation.

If your rear end is not hooked up, or something wrong with it, YOU MIGHT BE DRIVING IN FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ONLY!

If this is the case, the only way your Jeep will move is: TRANSFER CASE IN4 HIGH---or----4 LOW (low would be geared really low, and not feesable for Road Speeds)

So lets say you are driving only with the front wheels, and in 4 HIGH, this would work fine until you get 'er fixed.

But lets also say that YOUor"Sparky" the Firehouse Dog, Just so happened to be out there with you. While you were messing with Mr. JEEP.

People like to touch stuff! / So do those darn Fire Dogs!(Maybe it was you!)

If for some REASON, SOMEONE UNLOCKED ONE, OR BOTH of your locking hubs (front wheels). The front axle would just FREEWHEEL in placeTHUS JEEP WOULD ROLL FREELY!

Both should be in 4X4 position (Hubs locked in), if you are dependent on the front axle to pull your Jeep [if this be the case].

Reply, I will see it in the morning!

Love, Turddog

Allright CJ Guy, We will explain some stuff, I know you are new with Jeep, Be gentle and He will do you right.

Dependent on how far you want to carry this, a Chilton Manual would be your best and least expensive route.I RECOMMEND "Chilton" part # 8034 or its newer edition for CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, Scrambler, Wrangler 1971-1990 Repair Manual (If newer is for CJs only, get it. My manual, bought a good while back, has good diagrams and decent descriptions and it is a LARGER BOOK! (About $30-$40)

"Haynes" Manual is very VAGUE with the steering column. I would skip it for the ignition switch problem, but some manuals offer different Pics and it may help on another problemI have about 12 Jeep manuals, and 15 or so for other rigs I have/had

The very best you could do is a AMC service manual for "your year" or a close-by year (my 1979 manual would even get you 98% of the way thru, with very minor changes from year to year). This would be about a $75-$130 investment, and could be found at FYI MANUALS on the internet. It is the Absolute Best Manual to Have. It is written for 2nd Graders, has many Real PICS and Diagrams. Many test proceduresMost of the other manuals "Steal" from this one. This is the so-called Bible.

I can maybe talk you thru doing the actual "KEY SWITCH" or "LOCK CYLINDER"----A reference would still prepare you and Let you know the correct names of the parts "WE" would be dealing with. As long as you did not jump ahead, nothing would get broke----most people get impatient and break out the Hammer and screwdriver! (I Know some tricks)

As for wiring, there will be none associated with the cylinder itself

The turn signal swith would come into play, a little, but if its good---no need to replace it, however if its bad---NOW is the best time!It just plugs in near the base of the column----unless someone has "Butchered it" (those wires) It will be relatively EZ

Are you mechanical or have pals that way?

Do you have access to basic tools/pullers?

I CAN AND WILL HELP--Your help is appreciated too, for I type slow. If you comprehend well, I won't have to talk 1st Grader---things will move faster.

If you could at minimum read up on it, I will give you the REAL WORLD way to do it, and you will understand better. Sometimes books assume you understand. But once thru it with experienced help---You will be an expert!

The 2car guys sorta suggested a name change ( no likey the Dog name) So I picked CJ MEDEVAC. Better?

Did you see/read "1985 CJ 7 Stalls When Hot"?

If you will view my Walmart Stuff, you will see how SERIOUS and Time consuming I am with making a Jeep Better. (RE: PM, I sent)

Please Respond,

The Medic

When you spell "Jeep" Always use a CAPITAL "J"---otherwise it looks as if "He" is not important to you!

"HE" is a pronoun expressing "STRONG"---"MANLY" TraitsNever name your Jeep a "Sissy Name" like Chevy and Dodge owners do !

THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT STUFF DOES---READINGS ON A VOLTMETER AND WHEN!

HOW YOURS SHOULD BE IDENTICALLY BE HOOKED UP! ! !

Special Attention to all Mechanical Electrical Joints!

Let me know if it helped you.

If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything IS and DOES.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE (via resistance wire), SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION. This resistance wire, IS A RESISTOR!....Your COIL should be one stating: "FOR EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY"

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND.