1979 Jeep CJ5 Igntion Issues

See my profile, you can remove the ignition module and have it tested at Autozone or at Advance Auto.

Test 5-7 times to "warm it up"....if it fails once replace it.....DO THE SAME FOR THE NEW ONE! (just trust me)

Follow the wires leaving the distributor---will take you straight to the module. Module is the one with blue plastic where the wire come out (not the red one)

Module is the same as '70s--'80s Fords (BLUE) Self serve salvage yard may get you 2-3 for $10, take a cooler full of cold sodas.....Talk a bit grab, you and your buddy one, then.....OFFER TO YARD MAN!....This really goes a long way when its hot, and prices drop drastically!---free alot of times for me.

Pull on ALL wires opposite of each other (as a bundle) at the connector to disconnect.....digging at it with a screwdriver is wasting time...breaks the locks on the sides.

Your actual ignition switch is 12 O'clock on steering column----other side of dash---over your pedals....uses a rod from the Key (lock cylinder) to actuate it...........Real pain to remove ....big mirror lots of light helps alot!.......circus performers helping you would be a real plus for your back!

I CAN HELP YOU 100%----keep replying......Read other CJ 5/7 posts....see I will help big-time as long as it takes. Also can send REAL-TIME PICS if needed.

Gonna send you a Private Message....This may also help you should you need more personal, immediate help

The Medic

MY '77---Mega modifications

Check (remove, clean, and sand Fuse tips, holders)

Snagged this from another post I answered, testing for this may help (pick thru and use what you can)

PASTING.........

See my profile, I assume it won't even turn over, pick through this, it may help...OR NOT...Special Attention to all Mechanical Electrical Joints!

We will start here, think solenoid is OK, maybe carb issue too. Or vacuum problem. Read Post "1985 Jeep CJ 7 Stalls when Hot" IN CJ 7 FORUM (14 responses)(6 cylinder, lots of good stuff in post!) Get back wih me soon, WILL HELP YOU ALL I CAN!

To keep me from hunting and pecking all night, I grabbed an answer, I gave to somebody else.

Let me know if it helped you!

If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!

See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND

OK got all of your 3 PMs,

The #'s sorta mean nothing to me!

You should be running a coil "For use with External Resistor" (your resistor is a "resistance wire", from a splice to your coil)

"I" on your solenoid overrides it only while cranking ONLY (gives the full 12+ volts)......When it starts, reduced voltage via "Resistance Wire" takes over (6+Volts)

Prestolite Dist looks like this, Minus my destroying it!

Is this what you have?

BMW........Greer SC?

Did you take module to parts store for testing, as in other post?

Mine all were about 4"X 6" (Guess) and were Gold colored

Wanna Swap over for less than $100 to Motorcraft?

I had many issues with my Prestolite.........stranded several times.....at bad times!......Different problems....I do not miss it at all!

As for extra grounds, I see no need, as long as the originals are good.......And you have not modified stuff already.

After your next reply, I will COMMO you as per PM you sent.

The Medic