SPONSORED LINKS

1999 Jaguar XJ8 Shaking engine.

Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 JAGUAR XJ8
1999 Jaguar XJ8 V8 81000 miles

Have a 1999 Jaguar XJ8, 81k miles.

Purchased it a few months ago and have it checked out at a jaguar dealer, who said everything was fine.

Car has been sitting out, driven about once every 2 weeks. Drove it for about 15-20 miles today before it started idling very roughly. Things were going fine until we stopped somewhere for about a minute, and after I started the car up again the shaking occurred along with a "restricted performance" alert. This has never happened before, and the car has been driven for much more than 15 miles after I purchased it (~100 mi).

So, engine is rough when idling (shaking is gone or covered up when driving) and a "restricted performance" label appears. Also, I haven't tested this extensively yet, but the AC seems to blow hot air after the car started shaking.

I'm a complete novice at cars, but I once had a car that had a coolant leak into one of the engine cylinders causing it to misfire and thus shake, though the shaking was covered up when the car was actually driving.

How likely is this the case? The car has been sitting around in ~95 degree temperatures for a couple days, and it was driven earlier about 7 miles without problems. I know that it costs a couple thousand to have it repaired and if this was the case.=(.

I also noticed something about checking the EGR valve. Is this something that I can do myself, or do I have to go have someone check it out?

What do you guys recommend that I do?
SPONSORED LINKS
Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 12:10 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Honestly it sound like you have a vacuum leak. One of the vacuum hoses fell of or has a crack in it or something. You can look yourself for anything that is un hooked or have someone that is somewhat experienced check for a vacuum leak. Also just for safe measures always make sure your fluids are at adequate levels. (Oil, coolant, brake fluid, )
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 12:51 AM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thanks for the quick reply. I will go check up on the car tomorrow and do what you've told me and report back. Is there anything else that you think I should check? Sorry I'm not too experienced and I doubt I can get someone with more experience to help me out without going to a mechanic. That being said, I want to learn, so if there are any relatively simple checks I can do, please let me know and I'll research it a bit.

Thank you
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Yes make sure that, none of the spark plug wires, are burnt or cracked, one could be arcing against the block
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 5:55 AM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I was finally able to get a code reader. I've driven the car scarcely since.

P0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire
P1313 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 1
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete,
P1637 CAN Link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit/Network

last two say pending

When I last brought it do a jaguar dealership about 2-3 months ago and had them check the car out, they replaced the #4 ignition coil and said everything else looked fine.

Now it seems that the #2 ignition coil is failing? A friend of mine said that an "igniter" might be the problem.

Any ideas? What should I do?

Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, May 30th, 2008 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Wow, Im gonna refer you to one of our master techs this looks like it might be beyond me. Hold tight
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, May 30th, 2008 AT 11:13 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

I would start with the basics. Get the ignition system checked with an oscilloscope, a good operator will be able to read the ignition pattens and see if a coil, plug or module is at fault. Linked with an exhaust analyzer test this will give you an overall view of what is going on. Now as for the other points. I would clear all the codes and induce a fault. To check the fault gathering ability of the ECU. The CAN system I would have the Dealer check this, as it will be something very few independent work shops will be familiar with. I am only just coming to See CAN technology in my own business, so I am on a learning curve as well. Start here.

Mark (mhpautos)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, May 30th, 2008 AT 11:49 PM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Hm. Well, as a complete novice at this I think its safe to say I need to bring it to a dealership.

Do you have any idea what could be wrong? It sounds like its a pretty bad situation. I mean, the car was driving fine before all of a sudden it started shaking and now all of these codes come up. Is there a part that could be the root of all these troubles and something that would tie all of the codes together?

How much do you think it would cost to repair, if you do have an idea of what is wrong? Like I said, in the last repair, an ignition coil was replaced but other than that the car should have been fine.

Would it be okay to drive this car 20 miles to go to a dealership? I'm trying to gauge how bad this is.

Thank you both again for all your help!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 2:30 AM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

There is not much that you can do with these cars unless you have a god knowledge of the systems and a fir amount of special tooling, so I think you should get it of to a dealer and let them sort it out, we have given you a number of items to check, most of these should be able to be inspected by any competent mechanic.

Mark (mhpautos)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 3:11 AM
Tiny
DOCHAGERTY
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,601 POSTS
My Jaguar experience tells me the coils are faulty and will require replacement. I recommend replacement of all the coils. Many car makers now are using pencil coils made by Bosch or Bremi and they have an unacceptably high failure rates.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Hm, Dr. Hagerty,

Is there a certain kind of coil I should replace it with? I think I can replace the coils myself and save me from spending more money at the dealership.

I can replace the coils, but am wondering if there is something that would be causing all the coils to fail, or if the problem is simply in the coils.

I could replace the #2 coil, and if the check engine light no longer occurs, then would it be wise to assume that was the problem, and then go on to replace the rest of the coils?

I apologize if some of these questions are naive. I am just learning.

Thanks!

Thanks for your reply
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 1:53 PM
Tiny
DOCHAGERTY
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,601 POSTS
The coils are prone to failure and I would recommend replacement of all the coils, not just the one throwing the fault. However, they do list for $132 each. One at a time might be a little easier to take, don't you agree?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 2:39 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
I do indeed!
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Haha. Well, thanks a lot for the help guys

I just bought a manual online and will try to replace the #2 coil next week and report back. I heard it was relatively easy so I might be able to tackle this one myself.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 5th, 2008 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I'm back.

I haven't replaced the coil yet since I'm still waiting for a manual I ordered online. I couldn't find any auto parts store that has a manual for this car nearby.

But I noticed the car drives fine for about 10 minutes, and then it starts having the shaking problem and its hard to gas. Is this a symptom of ignition coil failure? I guess I'm wondering why it would happen only when the engine is running warm/hot, and am thinking there's probably more things wrong with it.

I suppose I'll see once I replace the ignition coil in a couple days.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Resistant across the coil is.54-1.04 OHMs test cold, and when problem starts, replace if not in spec!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 12th, 2008 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
NEMOAH
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
All right, so the car was fixed about two weeks ago, replaced an ignition coil and is running fine. Thanks for all the help!

One thing that was difficult for me to find was which ignition coil. Can someone confirm the order for my future reference?

The mechanic showed me a picture that looked something like this (the one marked with x was the one replaced, resolving the error code indicating a misfire in cylinder two).

Front of car
1 1
2 2x
3 3
4 4
drivers seat

does it look something like this? Or perhaps

front of car
5 1
6 2
7 3
8 4
drivers seat

I can't seem to find this information anywhere.

Thanks for anyone's input.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 2nd, 2008 AT 11:38 PM
Tiny
KDTDALTEX
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I have this same problem with my 99 VDP.
Dealer replace one coil and it was ok for 9 months, now its happening again.
What solved the issue?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 4:53 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Shake Content

VIEW MORE

Sponsored links