Is my PCM bad

Tiny
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  • 1999 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 217,300 MILES
All cluster needles would move and the lights lite up then all off like I was doing a gauge and light test but was not. For like two years now.
I did receive a cluster malfunction code only two times.
First time it done that I had to replace battery. Second time was for terminals, now it is at random.
is cluster done?

on to next:

at first I was have the random misfire and vap lock that issue went away after a bit. Then cylinder two misfire along with two and three injector issues. Replaced injectors, plugs and coil bar, injector issue gone. Misfire cylinder two stayed. It was really running bad. So I decided to change the crank and cam censors. It just got worse.
Now it is a no start. But I can start and hold pedal half way to start and run. Then gauges drop and fuel light comes on. I keep on the gas tho so no stall out. After about one minute gauges are back and gas light is off. It idles up and down almost to a stall.
so, I started to prob test wires for cam and crank and all are five volts.

any ideas?
yes I have fuel and spark and mil do not work either.
Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 1:40 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
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When you replaced the cam sensor, did you just remove the cam sensor itself or did you pull it out with the entire oil pump drive shaft? And when you installed the crank sensor, was there a new paper spacer with the sensor or just the sensor?
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Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
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First I did the cam it self. Result was same. Then pulled shaft to check teeth looked good to me. Put it TDC and installed shaft pin holes lined up. Yes there was spacer on CPS.
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Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
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If you turned the engine over before installing the oil pump gear then CMP sensor relationship must be reestablished. Here is the procedure. You will need a scan tool also to see if it is sync or not.

Temporarily install a toothpick or similar tool through access hole at side of oil pump drive housing. Align toothpick into mating hole on pulse ring.
Install oil pump drive into engine while aligning into slot on oil pump. Rotate oil pump drive back to its original position and install hold-down clamp and bolt. Finger tighten bolt. Do not do a final tightening of bolt at this time.
If engine crankshaft or camshaft has been rotated, such as during engine tear-down, CMP sensor relationship must be reestablished.
Remove ignition coil rail assembly. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/installation.
Remove cylinder number one spark plug.
Hold a finger over the open spark plug hole. Rotate engine at vibration dampener bolt until compression (pressure) is felt.

Slowly continue to rotate engine. Do this until timing index mark on vibration damper pulley aligns with top dead center (TDC) mark (0 degree ) on timing degree scale. Always rotate engine in direction of normal rotation. Do not rotate engine backward to align timing marks
Install oil pump drive into engine while aligning into slot on oil pump. If pump drive will not drop down flush to engine block, the oil pump slot is not aligned. Remove oil pump drive and align slot in oil pump to shaft at bottom of drive. Install into engine. Rotate oil pump drive back to its original position and install hold-down clamp and bolt. Finger tighten bolt. Do not do a final tightening of bolt at this time.
Remove toothpick from housing.
Install sensor to oil pump drive. After installation, the CMP sensor should face rear of engine 0°.
Install 2 sensor mounting bolts and tighten to 2 Nm (15 in. Lbs.) Torque.
Connect electrical connector to CMP sensor.
If removed, install spark plug and ignition coil rail.
To verify correct rotational position of oil pump drive, the DRB scan tool must be used.

WARNING: When performing the following test the engine will be running. Be careful not to stand in line with the fan blades or fan belt. Do not wear loose clothing.

Connect DRB scan tool to data link connector. The data link connector is located in passenger compartment, below and to left of steering column.
Gain access to SET SYNC screen on DRB.
Follow directions on DRB screen and start engine. Bring to operating temperature (engine must be in "closed loop" mode).
With engine running at idle speed, the words IN RANGE should appear on screen along with 0°. This indicates correct position of oil pump drive.
If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not zero, loosen but do not remove hold-down clamp bolt. Rotate oil pump drive until IN RANGE appears on screen. Continue to rotate oil pump drive until achieving as close to 0° as possible. The degree scale on SET SYNC screen of DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is not referring to ignition timing. Because of this, do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this method. Rotating oil pump drive will have no effect on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled by powertrain control module (PCM).
Tighten hold-down clamp bolt to 23 Nm (17 ft. Lbs.) Torque
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Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
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I cannot zero it due to stalling. But I did TDC before removing it and marked it so it was same place.
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Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
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You still need the scan tool to see if you are synced or not? Do you have scan tool to read live data?
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Monday, September 18th, 2017 AT 8:25 PM
Tiny
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Wish I had a drb, wouldn't be in this predicament now.
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Thursday, September 21st, 2017 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
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If you know someone with a snap-on scanner you may be able to see that data.
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Thursday, September 21st, 2017 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
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Would that be the only compatible kind
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Friday, September 22nd, 2017 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
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OTC and Launch are a couple of others but would need the advance features as well. Have you called around some shops to see hiw much to afjust it?
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Saturday, September 23rd, 2017 AT 2:00 PM

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