Is it cheaper to replace the entire engine or to change the crankshaft and camshaft sensors?

Tiny
MICHAEL FOGARTY
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 202,100 MILES
My car is at a shop to replace the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, they just called saying they cannot do the job due to the corrosion underneath because they are afraid, they may break a bolt and not be able to bore it out as they do not have the tools to do such things. They say it will run about $2,000.00 to get the job done but at another shop. My question is, is it cheaper to replace an engine in a 2004 Honda Civic EX automatic 4-Door Sedan or to replace the crankshaft and cam shaft sensors in that engine?
Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 10:46 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,494 POSTS
Might I ask what the original problem is? It's very rare for both cam and crank sensors to fail at the same time, especially if it still runs.
As for the question of engine replacement versus repairs, it depends on the repairs but normally you can expect an engine replacement to be far more expensive than repairs. As an example, the current price on a long block remanufactured engine for that car is $3,400.00 plus 12 hours of labor not including fighting with rust.
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Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
MICHAEL FOGARTY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Okay. The issue is when a diagnostic was run on it, the red codes of P0339, P0340 and P0344 telling me severe driving impact stop driving immediately. It also had a yellow code of P0452 for Fuel tank pressure sensor.
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Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
MICHAEL FOGARTY
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I tried to upload the screenshot from my phone, but the file would not be allowed for some reason to show you the codes of the diagnostic machine.
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Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,494 POSTS
Okay, the codes you have are circuit codes, basically saying that both sensors are turning on and off at random. I suspect that if you can read the freeze frame data for each code you will find they occur at the same time. I suspect the issue in both is a bad ground as they share that between them. Attached is the wiring for those sensors and you can see the common grounds. They also share common power but that also powers the injectors, and you don't show misfire or related codes for those. As those two seem to be the ones with an issue I would probably start by unplugging them both and checking for any corrosion in the connectors. Then if you find nothing, I would be tempted to just run a pair of new ground to the sensors. They are the brown wires with yellow stripes, and you could simply remove the insulation on the wiring on the sensor side of the connector, in the event that the connector is the issue or one farther toward the ECM, then simply connect a jumper wire there, solder and seal it in place and connect the other ends to a good ground nearby.
Then clear the codes. Next go to the power splice connection that has the multiple yellow with black and black wires, unplug it and plug it back together. Now drive it and see if the codes return. If they, don't you have a repair.
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Friday, July 29th, 2022 AT 12:04 PM

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