I am told I have a bad inverter. My question is, can I put a used inverter from the same year and model?

I did not find a used one. I found a new one from gm direct for $3,299, 00, I don't know if that is the problem. That is what the guy working on it says.
A after he put in a battery. The big one. He says the only codes that came up were, POC76-00, CO561-00, CO775-00, WITH THE POC76-00 SHOWING 4 or 5 more times but displaying different data. Now the codes are U1885-00, B1001-43, POAID-00, U1817-00, U1843-00, CO561-71, UO100-88, CO242-00, PO700-00, POAID-00, B1001-00, UD293-00, U1817-00, UI843-00 POC76-00, and some of them repeat themselves with different explanations, the POC76-00 must be in there at least 12 times with a different meaning. From what I am getting from him it looks to me that he decided that my module needed reprogramming. While he was reprogramming the battery went dead. He said any way. It was only 3 days old tho. So I think he would have lost the module. I think it is like programming a bios in a computer. If you lose power while installing. It is lost forever. Not sure tho. He then decided to put in a used invert-er. After install he said it would not read because it had wrong info in it. So he installed my chip in it but he says the part of my invert-er that stores my info is the part that is broken so the new invert-er would not read it. So now he says I need I whole new invert-er assembly. After reading all night about this stuff. I think after changing the big battery and the little battery and a whole new invert-er assembly with a new control module and transmission module and a air conditioner compressor. With the exception of the cooling system. That is all there is. Am I right?

Also, a lot of the codes say lost communication of this or that but then they all say status this ignition, pass, fail, after codes cleared, fail past history. Is that telling me that after the big battery was installed that there was high current, then at one time he tested it and these codes passed. But he tested again and they failed and that is all the history there is because the codes were cleared? And if the battery control module lost its information, would that cause all the communication losses. I know its a lot to ask. But I have learned just enough to make me think I can figure it out. And try and make sense out of maybe nothing. Thank you so much. I am wondering if maybe my 12 volt battery went bad. Because it was still original. And I drove all the juice out of the big battery. And if I would have had a bidirectional reader I could have changed the program to charge the battery with a jump car with a charger on it. Purchased a new 12 volt and been good to go. Would that have worked if that is possible? Because there were no loss of communication codes until the invert-er was messed with. Up until that point it just would not turn over.

And really thank you Mr. Roy.
I don't think he will take responsibility for any thing, but I feel much better know a thing or two. Very nice service you are giving people.

I am sorry but one more question. The program or scanner he used. He posted the results on google pictures. The program show my car and VIN. And it also say the time is 13.26 but on the pages that have the scan results it says 9;31. I think 13.26 is military time for 1:36. Would there be another reason for the times to be different?

He says, "this is after the battery change and before the inverter swap"
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zfSuCWacDyagKELn7

After used invert-er was in and after GM's service programming July 12th. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9fETLkfHnxu5zMws5

Final scan with the used invert-er containing the old invert-er's chip that includes the original VIN number, confirming the newer invert-er is communicating and installed correctly but the old invert-er's board is what was defected bringing back the code P0C76. Picture of board and codes below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLWuGyKvkLEjLALf7

Hi Roy. I just copied from my email then pasted here. Maybe if you have a little time you can take a quick look. I am being told this is all the codes. But looking at the vehicles in his test list I can see that the 2010 Chevrolet Silverado is on the list of vehicles tested more times than the code pages he sent. I don't want to sound stupid if I ask him about it. He talks real slow and acts all offended when I ask about anything. It would be nice to be able to ask him questions that I haven't guessed about. What do you think?

Well, If some one is going to take the time to look at my problem and help me get this thing going I should give all the information that I have received. Thursday after he told me I needed a $5,000.00 part. I asked for all the recorded codes he had. 4 hours later he sent me this:

Hi Ron, part of the problem at first is since the small battery was disconnected (I know I recommended that over the phone to see if you can drive the car), the codes and freeze frame were all clear. The hybrid battery didn't have a code but was giving 0 voltage instead of 300+ (on the scanner and manually while bypassing safety switches). I tested individual relays manually, and one of them didn't open up. I couldn't find any bad batteries anywhere to get parts from, so I suggested getting a used battery to get it over with. Since then, the hybrid battery gives 300v and that issue was resolved.

After hybrid battery install July 4th, before ordering inverter
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zfSuCWacDyagKELn7
After used inverter was in and after GM's service programming July 12th
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9fETLkfHnxu5zMws5
Final scan with the used inverter containing the old inverter's chip that includes the original vin number, confirming the newer inverter is communicating and installed correctly but the old inverter's board is what was defected bringing back the code P0C76. Picture of board and codes below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLWuGyKvkLEjLALf7

There were several other hiccups like the low power issues that the car was lying about (out of humor, since the small battery was not always low) ...etc that added more time.

Attached is what a customer was quoted a couple months ago, but we changed a used one for them instead.

As discussed, I don't want you to feel pressured to spend more money with us since we have our car. This is not the way we do business.
You have the option to buy the part yourself, you have the option to get your car back, and you have the option of having a third party validate or check the work that is done.

One thing to keep in mind, the invert-er is a special order is not available in stock anywhere I called. 2-day shipping option starts after the part is delivered from GM.

He is telling me that all the stuff he replaced in the truck happened because the 12 volt battery going dead. This started at my house and soon I had towed it to a shop in Santa Clara were he said he had all the correct test equipment. So he now says that the reason that the 12 volt battery went dead as well as the 300 volt battery. And the reason the truck still wont turn over is because it needs a new invert-er assembly, that cost $5,500.00 just for the part. But he will install it for free. I gave him $1,500.00 for a rebuilt 300 volt battery. That he said he installed. But I have no paper work or record of any kind except what I showed you. I don't even know if there is a shop. Am I getting scammed? When I write all this down and read it it isn't sounding good.

Thank you Roy.

This thread it's incredibly helpful!

Simple summary.
1. I bought a 2009 hybrid Tahoe.
2. Dealer deduced 4 things, I've find the first 3 - new 12V battery, new ignition, (refurbished) hybrid battery.
3. Final conclusion- hybrid inverter module. Power is not transferring from hybrid battery to start the truck
4. I bought a used Hybrid inverter module (and ECM).

What's the process for properly installing that used inverter module?

A. Any obvious pitfalls?
B. Any clarity on the earlier take aways?
I) swap the chip in the inverter with the original to retain the matching VIN.
Ii) keep it powered with a battery re- programming. Other?