Wheel alignment

You have the wrong strut design for a cam bolt. Those are for the design GM and Chrysler used throughout the 1980's and 1990's that had two lower mounting bolts. GMs needed to have one mounting hole elongated, then an aftermarket bolt could be installed. They didn't make their cars alignable from the factory. Chrysler's mostly came with the cam bolt already in place. A very few models, such as the Dynasty, needed to have one mounting bolt replaced with the cam bolt, but the hole in the strut was already elongated.

Camber is adjusted on your model by loosening the four upper strut mount bolts next to the hood hinge, then you slide that mount left or right to make the adjustment. Often there will be a white plastic pin in the center, front of the mount, that has to be removed the first time camber is changed. Those have a rounded top that causes a flat blade screwdriver tip to slide off. Instead, just use a small screwdriver and punch it into that plug, then use that to pop it out. That plug can be discarded. My nifty red arrow in the drawing is pointing to where that plug is recessed inside the hole.

There's another Stratus model listed, a coupe, that I'm not familiar with. If that is like the two Sebring models, one is built by Mitsubishi and is totally different than the more common domestic model. They do show a special bolt for the coupe, but in ten years at the dealership as a suspension and alignment specialist, I never installed one of those.

If it is wearing the inside of the tire, it has too much negative camber and that should have been addressed by the alignment, unless there is a problem with the front end, in which case the tech should have caught it during the alignment. May want to take it for a second opinion

Sounds like a very customer oriented place. I would not return to the tire place, but have it diagnosed elsewhere.

Should it be loose lug nuts or a bad tire or balance, I would insist they re-imburse you for their mistake. However, you may want to present it to them that this is your plan and see if maybe they want to take a look first at no charge.

Bad tire, loose lug nuts, bent rim, bad balance loose steering parts can all cause this.

I suggest having the tie rods, bearing and balls joints checked in the process of finding what is wrong.

No need for tires every time you get an alignment
but its better to get an alignment with new tires

They are adjustable and must be turned to adjust them. That may not be possible depending on where they're bent. Adjusting either one 1/8" in length will have a major effect on handling and tire wear. How much shorter are those links now that they're bent? They aren't that hard to replace.

Caradiodoc