Ignition will not crank motor?

The first thing we need to do is put a breaker bar on the front of the engine (balancer) to see if the engine turns over to make sure it is not seized up. If the engine turns here is a guide to help you check for power and the starter wiring diagrams so you can see where it loses power from:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check to see if you have power at fuse #7 when the key is in the crank position. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find.

Hello Ken. Thanks for the information and the diagrams. The next time I am out, I will buy a test light.
I used my multimeter and started doing voltage tests to the starter relay. I stuck the probe in the red blue {S) wire that sends voltage to the starter. It only showed 10 volts when I turned the ignition key on and tried to start the van. I turned on my lights and tested the in going and outgoing terminals of the battery guard (with the load) and the outgoing only read 9 volts. Needless to say, I took the in and out and just joined them on the outgoing post and the E150 started right up with the key.
I really appreciate you giving your time and thought to my problem. I'll look for a way to support your website or donate to your site. I do have one more question. I put a new/rebuilt alternator in as mentioned and the amp light on the dash stays on. I tested the output at 13.9 volts and then turned the lights and blower motor. It still put out 13.85 volts with the load. Can I just disconnect the white/black striped stator wire? I do have a gauge on the top right instrument panel.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime. Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken