Touched the capacitor and it crumbled. So was looking up part number T50276. It is 0.5 uF from Mitsubishi. Cannot find it anywhere. Now is it electrolytic or Non electrolytic. Most under 1 uF is Non. Is this protecting from surges? Car will start sometimes but rare and when it does it does not want to idle, it is like I am intermittently depressing accelerator. Seems like it is robbing power from other components too. And with it not in will I burn up other things on the run circuit?
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Tuesday, June 14th, 2016 AT 12:37 PM
19 Replies
KEN L
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Can you send a picture of what you are talking about please?
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 8:06 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Is this stopping spikes of current from the secondary? And isn't their supposed to be a diode inside the relay for it?
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 10:36 AM
KEN L
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That looks like a noise suppressor for the radio and has noting to do with the way the engine runs. Does the engine have low power misfire? What is it doing
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:16 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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I soldered the wire back in to the cap and it will start fine. Idle fine. But I do have about.6 volt drop in the ignition circuit. And when I jump the inhibitor relay. Battery straight to start. It will run but also coolant sensor had about.298 and tps.650. Ect power comes from ecu and tps from tcu. But both on same ground.
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:28 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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No misfire but on bumpy roads before I found bad capacitor it would stall out driving.
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:32 AM
KEN L
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Disconnect the ignition coil and rerun the tests you could have a shorted coil. It could be the computer has gone bad as well
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:32 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Coil secondary 15k a little low. All sensors spec. No fries in ecu or tcu. But I already tried unplug coil. Still same
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:40 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Ahh there was a wire soldered to back of radio battery power wire to run extra amp. Looks like it shorted to ground because it's bare. And shorted o2 rear
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Thursday, June 16th, 2016 AT 11:47 AM
KEN L
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Did you fix the wire and is the o2 sensor okay now?
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 8:28 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Fix the wire and heat shrink. O2 bad. Still low power to sensors and half a volt drop to acc and run.
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 9:09 AM
KEN L
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Thanks for getting back to me, it seems like a power transistor is shorted out, here is a wiring diagram that shows the o2 sensors wiring.
Let me know what you find.
Best, Ken
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-1
Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 9:21 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Cannot read codes or use consult, but mil lamp says 13 ect temp. 84 trans diag comm line. 10 5 egrc. 43 tps. 126 tps. 28 overheat.
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 9:25 AM
KEN L
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Lets disconnect the battery to clear codes, if that doesn't work it sounds like the computer is bad.
Best, Ken
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 9:30 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Consult will not power. Will not start with inhibitor switch in. But if I jump inhibitor relay it will start.
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 11:50 AM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Power transistor spec and air regulator good too. Where else does the white green ignition wire go your diagram is alot better. Maybe that is why the inhibitor switch has to be jumped.
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 12:01 PM
ANDREW THOMAS2
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Theft warning relay 2. E56 pin 1 has 12 volts pin 3 does not. So replaced splice was 12 until I tried to start then went dead again
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Friday, June 17th, 2016 AT 12:10 PM
KEN L
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Hey ANDREW,
Sorry for the delayed response this question must have slipped through the cracks. Did you ever get the problem fixed?
Best, Ken
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Wednesday, December 21st, 2016 AT 11:43 AM
CSMOHT
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It's called an external ignition coil good luck trying to find them you got to buy the whole distributor to get it and that's the reason why his car is not starting just dealt with the same thing