key in the key cylinder and push it up toward the windshield the car won't start

This is a pretty simple process but it may not be the lock cylinder. It may be the switch itself so I would start with this.

I attached the process for both. I would suggest starting with the cylinder and since it is so easy and then do the switch if that does not solve it.

Please let us know if you have questions and how you make out with this. Thanks

this is the part i need to change, or make thicker, the actual actuator . . .

Hi,

I noticed we haven't been in contact with you for a couple of days. Have you been able to make any progress? We're interested in knowing.

Joe

i haven't made much progress other than acquiring an actuator from a salvage yard to see if i could get the end piece out without taking the rivets off, other than that i baby the switch and keep my eyes on the instrument cluster, and wiggle the switch a little when the gauges turn off . . .

i haven't had much luck with this, i keep my eyes on the instrument cluster and wiggle the key a bit when they start to turn off . . .

Did you change the switch out?

no, not yet. i am seriously considering mixing up some JB Weld to thicken the actuator . . .

Okay, let me know how it goes.

okay, i will. thanks

okay, i tried some JB weld but it didn't stick to such a small surface until i cleaned the brake cleaner i had used earlier off with 90% isopropyl. then i noticed the flat on the shaft end, so i went to a salvage yard and got the whole mechanism. problem solved, except the switch connector is embossed B (or), SR ( vio/bu), P (violet), S (or/vio), R/S (or/wt), instead of numbers or anything else i've seen posted. as an aside i'd like to note the two S2 T30, (tamper-resistant torx with five lobes and a center post), screws that fasten the mechanism to the steering column and the yellow tab that should be depressed in the run position to take a cable off the assembly to remove it. thanks for your help, 'preciate it . . .

okay, i tried some JB weld but it didn't stick to such a small surface until i cleaned the brake cleaner i had used earlier off with 90% isopropyl. then i noticed the flat on the shaft end, so i went to a salvage yard and got the whole mechanism. problem solved, except the switch connector is embossed B (or), SR ( vio/bu), P (violet), S (or/vio), R/S (or/wt), instead of numbers or anything else i've seen posted. as an aside i'd like to note the two S2 T30, (tamper-resistant torx with five lobes and a center post), screws that fasten the mechanism to the steering column and the yellow tab that should be depressed with the key in the run position to remove a cable

i've posted a reply twice but it doesn't show up, am i missing something?

i entered two replies with images but they haven't shown up, kave the been predeleted as spam?

i changed it out and entered a post this morning but it hasn't showed up, has it been deleted as spam?

here is the switch i installed

Yep, that looks good, does everything work okay now or?

yes, everything is working as it should, thanks for your help . . .

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.