ignition module?

Good morning,

Is the distributor turning?

If you have an RPM reading, the crank sensor is sending a signal.

Roy

Good morning, yes the distributor turns.. I checked to see if the coil is throwing spark to a screw that has ground and nothing.

Okay, verify power to the positive side of the coil. If you do, then use a test light on the negative side and crank the engine. Tell me if the test light flashes.

Roy

The clip on negative of the battery I point the test light on power feed it lights up..with key on n while cranking it flickers off and switching the clip to positive on battery I have no ground even while cranking, that's the connection for the coil.. and for the ignition module I have ground and power feed using the test light..

If it is flashing then it is commanding the coil to fire. That would indicate a bad coil.

Roy

If the power feed is flashing then it's a bad..am I supposed to get ground from the connection too?
(The coil connection)

Forget about the ground. That is not relevant to this test. You are looking for the module turning the coil on and off.

Roy

Okay with a charged battery I'ma do the test light on the power feed connection of the coil while cranking if it flickers means to swap out the bad coil right?

Correct.

Roy

Doesn't flicker just gets little dim while cranking and I lost rpm signal.

Okay, then replace the module back by the coil.

Roy

Do I replace both?

Just the module.

Roy

The ecm didnt have good ground

That is odd. The ECM controls fuel. Spark is not controlled by the ECM. It is an independent system.

Roy

i got a 1996 chevy silverado that is getting a sporadic spark from the cap. replaced the cap and rotor cause they were bad. is it the ignition module or coil?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure first. it could be a crank or cam sensor as well

Fuel pressure is great only engine code was p0300 generic engine miss

what is/was fuel pressure? it should be 60-66 psi, then check compression as well as for vacuum leak and what engine is it?it can also be a bad injector

The fuel pressure with key on was at 50 and stayed there my good friend that a mechanic said that was good. It 5.7 vortec no vacuum leaks. the bad thing is the truck has 63000 miles and gets driven maybe twice a month looks like it came right off the show room from 1996. But if your saying pressure should be 60 to 66 then that would make sense because i thought it was the pump because she started having hard starts and then nothing thats why i check pump for pressure but make be he gave me the wrong psi

low fuel pressure will causes misfires, so if you are at 50 i'd say it's bad especially since it starts hard

i've replaced the belt tentioner and the belt keeps coming off. what should i do? 2nd question. do i need to disconnect the battery to replace the ignition module?

Hi there,

you will have to check for any run out in the belt system, with the engine running watch all pulleys and see if they are running true, check for any wobble, and with the engine off remove the belt and check all bearings and pulleys for serviceability, there should be no movement side ways or any bearing noise, as for the ignition module, it is alway safest to disconnect the battery before any electrical work is done, you can get memory savers that plug into the cig lighter if you don't want to loose radio codes and any ECU memory data.

mark (mhpautos)

mark (mhpautos)

Here's my dilemma: I'm wanting to install a part that I can't, nor anyone else I've asked for that matter, seem to find. I'm looking for the location where the Electronic Spark Controller (ESC) is located on my truck listed above K1500, 5.7L V-8, Auto transmission. It's the last piece, other than a new computer, to try and fix the problem I've been having in regards to engine bog down when it gets hot or when it's humid. I've been looking for this holy grail all morning and have asked numerous local mechanics as well all with the same result. Help! lol and thanks in advance. :)

Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. If your truck is equipped an ECM- engine control module it has an external knock sensor and module. If your truck is equipped with a PCM-powertrain control module it is built into the PCM and you won't find it externally. I've attached pictures below showing the ecm system with the external sensor and module circled in red showing their location. I've also attached a picture of the PCM system notes. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Why won't truck accelerate and why does it now sift 500 to 1000 rpm higher than normal?
I replaced fuel pump and when i went to start truck it ran for about 20 seconds and died, it did that three times and then would'nt start anymore. I towed it to shop. they said it was the dist. when i got it back it ran but i had no power, shifting is now about 1000 rpms higher than it should be, power locks no longer work, and if the truck even sees an incline it starts slowing down. before changing fuel pump the engine ran great. My scan tool said the ECM was in limp mode but the engine never ran better. Now, after reman dist. ha sbeen installed (by shop)I i get code 42 Electronic sparks advance and ECM in limp mode. I installed a reman ECM last Thursday but I still have no acceleration above 30 mph. I sure could use another opinion, that is if any of this makes sense to ya. Thanx

Probably the distributor wasn't stabbed in right or the EST wire wasn't disconnect when doing the ignition timing adjustment

when i went to pick up truck the repair order said that they set timing at 2 deg adv. which brought the idle up to about 900 and the cat. converter plug ( about 2 inches in dia.) had been popped out. I had to seal that hole due to noise and i asked them to set timimg to 0 deg. he said he does that alot, to try to make for chain stretch. So when he reluctently agreed to reset it he disconnected a brown wire connector on firewall, pass. side, right at corner of engine. but he disconnected it while engine was running. isn't that a no no?

The EST wire is Tan and Black.Its okay if he's adjusting the ignition timing. Once adjustment is done and plug back in-the computer controls the timing advance

i agree. so now we're back to my original problem and question which has to do with lack of power

Hesitating/lacking acceleration

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.

i have a snap on scan tool and have had it connected while driving. from what I've read and what i see on screen it appearsthings are normal. You would'nt happen to have operating specs so as to compare with scan tool real time numbers?

would ya know why its not shifting at the proper rpm under normal acceleration?

I replaced the O2, now i get code 42 Electronic Spark Timing, can ya assist me?

I would like to know where the ignition control module is. Or the igniter. have problems truck is not firing. Engine was a 305 the guy I bought it from put in a 350

the ignition control module is in the distributor. it's the little flat looking thing with usually 2 wires on either side of it. you can come to the site here and look under diy and ther eshould be things under tune up on how to test it.

1993 chevy silverado, v-6 2 wd 220,000 miles,manual transmission . I have replaced 2 ignition modules in about 20 miles of driving I am stumped as to what could be blowing them I have put the silicone gel on both and have also replaced the coil. I do believe the starter is bad but don't know why that would have anything to do with it.

nosworc,
not sure what your problem could be. My question is how do you know when the ignition module goes bad? I've got an 88 and was wondering if that could be my problem as well.

[quote:79981e0089="nosworc"]1993 chevy silverado, v-6 2 wd 220,000 miles,manual transmission . I have replaced 2 ignition modules in about 20 miles of driving I am stumped as to what could be blowing them I have put the silicone gel on both and have also replaced the coil. I do believe the starter is bad but don't know why that would have anything to do with it.[/quote:79981e0089]

Run it in the drive for 20mins. when it dies immediately check for spark while cranking it over-do you have it? And also if its distributorless check your crankshaft position sensor and its vref. coming from the computer.

Hope this helps/Good Luck