Does this vehicle have an IAC?

Tiny
JT856
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  • 2009 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Does the vehicle listed above have an idle air control valve?
My car is idling kind of bad.
Sunday, February 12th, 2023 AT 11:17 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
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The IAC valve is the same part as used on Chrysler products. They called it the "automatic idle speed", (AIS) motor. It is a "stepper" motor. Those do not have brushes like a regular DC motor has, and the armature doesn't spin the same way. Instead, they have four electromagnetic coils of wire that are pulsed with varying voltages and polarities to set the armature to a certain position. As that armature rotates, it extends or retracts a pintle valve that opens or closes an air passage around the throttle blade. At the same time, the Engine Computer adjusts the number of milliseconds it pulses the injectors open to adjust idle speed.

Your engine uses an electronic throttle control system that has the idle speed function built in. In either case, its only function is idle speed when your foot is off the accelerator pedal. It has nothing to do with idle quality or engine performance. In that regard, we need a better description than, "bad". That can mean idle speed that's too high, too low, surging, or rough running. The causes of those symptoms typically aren't limited to just idle speed. There will usually be symptoms at other engine speeds too.

Most often when there's an engine performance problem, the Engine Computer will detect a related problem and set a diagnostic fault code for it. If that code refers to something that could possibly affect emissions, it will also turn on the Check Engine light. Be aware those fault codes never say to replace a part or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operation condition.

The place to start is by having the fault code(s) read and recorded. The people at many auto parts stores will do that for you for free. This article shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Once you know a code number, you can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p0300

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.
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Sunday, February 12th, 2023 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
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Well, when I say bad it shakes at idling like when at a red light or when it's parked and sometimes it doesn't want to start up. It feels like it wants to shut down and when going reverse it had shut down on me once in my backyard.
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Monday, February 13th, 2023 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
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You're describing a standard misfire problem. Most often that's related to normal services such as replacing spark plugs and filters. The problem is today it is common for spark plugs to last 100,000 miles so they tend to not get the attention they used to get.

Did you have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded?
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Monday, February 13th, 2023 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
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I haven't not checked the codes yet. I have changed all the spark plugs and wires with new. I once cleaned my throttle body that was like 2 or 1 month ago. Im thinking it's that. If not it might me a spark plug that's not calibrated right
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Monday, February 13th, 2023 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
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Don't go guessing yet until we have some codes to look at. When a misfire is bad enough to feel, it has been bad enough for a long time for the Engine Computer to detect. The most common fault codes start with "P0300". That one indicates a random cylinder misfire. The next codes get specific, as in a code "P0305" for example, means cylinder number 5 has a misfire.

Up until a few years ago, a fellow by the name of Jim Linder had a fuel injector rebuilding company close to the Indianapolis Speedway. He put on injector-related classes, including one at my community college for just 50 people. That's where we learned about common injector problems. Eight of the top ten failures listed on his web site involved GM vehicles. The other two involved import models. According to him, when Chrysler buys injectors, they buy them from Bosch in flow-matched sets. Injector problems are just about unheard of and they easily last the life of the vehicle with no or little maintenance. I can't say what other manufacturers do, except for GM, as that's what most of the day-long class revolved around. When GM installs injectors on the assembly line, they grab a handful out of a large bin, and pop them into an engine with no regard to flow-matching. Being new, they all tend to flow roughly the same volume of fuel each time they fire, up to around 100,000 miles. By that time, with a little normal wear and maybe a little varnish buildup, one or two start to flow a little less volume than the rest. Eventually this results in a lean mixture misfire that you will rarely feel. This is why it is real common to get a Check Engine light, with one of those P03xx fault codes, but with no noticeable engine performance problems. This has been an elusive problem for years. The solution is to install a set of rebuilt injectors that have been matched and are sold in those matched sets.

Experienced engine performance specialists can look at the fuel trim numbers to get some clues to this. For the rest of us, a common plan of attack is to switch two injectors, including the one from the cylinder with the misfire code, erase the old code, then see of a misfire code sets for the cylinder the suspect injector was moved to.

Cleaning the throttle blade of carbon would not be my first stab at a solution. That used to cause hesitancy or surging when trying to accelerate, and it affected all the cylinders equally, so it also caused idle speed problems. When you can feel the misfire, it is affecting the cylinders unequally, so we have to look for things that can vary or be different between them. I don't see much reference to any carbon-related problems today like we used to see, due to better additives in the fuel.

Since you started out asking about the IAC motor, allow me to add another chapter to that story. That motor used to be the exact same part used on GMs and Chryslers for many years. On the Chrysler engines, you can look on a scanner to see the number of "steps" the Engine Computer has placed that motor at. They go from step 0 to as high as step 256, that being the air bypass valve is wide open. For a typical, properly-running engine, step 32 is common. With a V-8 engine with one dead cylinder, it will be around stwp 50 to keep the engine at its target idle speed. To show how much control the computer has over idle speed, an instructor unplugged one injector at a time on a V-8 in a Jeep. With each disabled cylinder, idle speed would of course drop, then the computer bumped up the idle steps to get it back to the desired idle speed. The last straw was to have seven injectors unplugged. Obviously the engine did not run even close to "well", but it did keep up to the desired peed, and it hadn't yet reached step 200.

GM controlled their idle speed the same way, but I don't think they called them "steps". Most other manufacturers display the percent that valve is open, from "0" to "100".

Also be aware the computers don't monitor that valve's position. They pulse the electromagnetic coils inside the IAC motor, assume it responds, then they look at actual engine rpm to determine the need to make another correction. That is done continuously as the engine idles. On a scanner's display, you'll see those numbers bouncing around until you press the accelerator pedal.

As a point of interest, when you disconnect a battery cable on an older Chrysler, or run the battery dead, the memory is lost in the Engine Computer. All the sensor personalities and fuel trim numbers are relearned automatically as soon as you restart the engine, without you noticing, except for "minimum throttle". Until that is done, the idle speed will be too low. The engine may not start unless the accelerator pedal is held down 1/4". You won't get the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall when shifted into gear and when approaching stop signs. There's a very simple procedure to make that relearn take place that just involves driving the vehicle. The clue in this case if you're looking on a scanner is the idle steps will remain at "0" until that relearn takes place. Basically, the conditions that must be met are intended to let the computer know your foot is off the accelerator pedal, then it takes a reading from the throttle position sensor and puts that in memory. From then on, anytime it sees that same signal voltage from the TPS, it knows it must be in control of idle speed.

To my knowledge, that has never been an issue with GM engines. This is a real common complaint with Chrysler engines with a real easy solution, but I don't recall ever reading about that complaint on other vehicle brands.

Since more engines have been using a single ignition coil for each cylinder, failures have become rather common. That seems to affect Ford truck engines more than anything else, but you might also consider switching two coils to see if the misfire moves to a different cylinder. Send the coil from the misfiring cylinder to a different cylinder than the one you switched the injector to. That way, if the fault code does come up with a different misfiring cylinder, you'll know which part is responsible by which part you moved to that cylinder.

Sorry that this is starting to sound like a legal contract. That should give you some more ideas, but it's really the fault codes we want to see first. If necessary, there are a couple of other experts I can get involved to help find a solution.
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Monday, February 13th, 2023 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
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The code that showed was P0302. I had checked it out and the spark plug was not calibrated right, and it was loose. I had fixed it but it still tries to turn off and had turned off on me again at my backyard going on reverse and it still sometimes has problems starting up.
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Thursday, February 16th, 2023 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
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This all goes back to idle speed being too low. At this point we need a scanner to see the actual idle speed and the "target" idle speed.

If the target idle speed is considerably higher than the actual speed, the computer is trying to increase it, but without success. A good suspect for that used to be carbon plugging the air passage around the throttle blade, but today that's less common due to better additives in the gas. This is no longer an issue with electronic throttle controls. Idle speed is adjusted by moving the throttle blade, not with an air bypass passage around it.

If the target idle speed is lower than the actual speed, the computer is not trying to get it up to where it should be. On Chrysler products that was real common after the battery has been disconnected or run dead. The computer needs to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will adjust idle speed. To meet the conditions for that to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

I've heard about the need to do the relearn procedure on older GM vehicles too but no one has ever posted that procedure. The place to start is by observing what the computer is commanding for idle speed. If it is stuck on 0% or 0 steps, expect idle speed to be too low. If the steps or percent are rather high, as in 50 steps or around 20%, something is causing the speed to not respond. At that point, on older models, I would remove the idle speed motor while the engine is idling, and see if idle speed picks up. If it does not, that air passage has to be blocked. Cleaning them out on older Chrysler products only took a few minutes with carburetor cleaner and a small brush.

There is a relearn procedure for newer GM models with the throttle-by-wire system that you should try. Start the engine and let it idle for at least three minutes. Turn the engine off for one minute. Restart it and let it idle for another three minutes.

If the idle speed is still not right, drive the truck under varying conditions. Sometimes you'll hear, "over 44 mph" for a few minutes as part of the drive cycle.
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Thursday, February 16th, 2023 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
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Well, my RPM needle is stuck between 1 and 0. Is that bad or by any chance do you know what could be the problem with that? And, when driving when accelerating the engine sounds louder than it was before.
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Thursday, February 16th, 2023 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
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Multiple things can sound louder than normal. The most common would be an exhaust leak and a radiator fan clutch. Exhaust leaks often start out as a ticking noise during acceleration. Fans make a lot of noise when the engine is first started, then they quiet down after a couple of minutes. That is normal.

Typical idle speed is around 800 rpm, but the exact value is calculated by the Engine Computer. We look at the live data readings on the scanner to see if the "target", or desired idle speed is the same as the actual speed. Those are both normally listed right next to each other.
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Thursday, February 16th, 2023 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
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Well, now my car doesn't want to start now. I'm not sure if it's the ignition coil harness wire lead or not really sure what could be the problem. Was driving and my car had lost power and had to park on the side of the road where I was at and then it shut off and it didn't want to start up no more.
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Friday, February 17th, 2023 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
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There's two things to start with. The first is to see if there is spark. Check out these articles:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Next is to read and record any diagnostic fault codes. Those may lead us to the circuit that needs further diagnosis. A scanner or a simple code reader is needed for this. This article shows how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

The people at most auto parts stores will do that for you for free if you can get the truck there. Once we know the diagnostic fault code(s), you can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p0300

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

This article shows where we are likely to be headed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Saturday, February 18th, 2023 AT 12:18 PM
Tiny
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Is it possible to remove the hose? And how can I remove it? And the other thing, is that the fuel pressure regulator? I had codes for cylinder 1 and 2 code 302 (1 and 2 ) and code 523 ( oil pressure sensor) the sensor is new.
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Tuesday, February 21st, 2023 AT 3:35 PM
Tiny
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Are you referring to the fuel supply hose? There's more than one design shown for your truck. If your fuel pump assembly has three ports, or tubes, there should be a pressure regulator on the fuel rail on the engine. Most of the time that rail will have a pressure test port.

The pumps shown all appear to have the pressure regulator built into that assembly, so the regulator is in the tank. Then there's a chance there is no test port by the engine. In that case you remove the supply hose and insert a special hose with a temporary test port on it. All fuel pressure test kits include a lot of different fittings including that special hose. You can find this kit at any auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. In my city they make you buy the tool, then you get a full refund when you take it back. If you choose to keep a tool, you still take it back, then they order or give you a brand new one.

This is the way GM fuel pumps typically fail. Chrysler fuel pumps almost always fail to start up, leaving you sitting in the driveway or parking lot. They can often be started by banging on the bottom of the gas tank, but that's just a temporary fix. Once they do start up, they practically never quit while you're driving.

GM fuel pumps almost always start up, then they quit or run slower during the drive cycle. If you let them sit and cool down for a few hours, they may start again and run long enough to get you home.

When you disconnect a fuel supply hose, it is easy to misinterpret the fuel you see spraying out. Typical pressure is around 50 psi, give or take. Just five pounds is plenty to spray you in the face, but a lot of GM engines won't start or will stall if the fuel pressure is as little as five pounds too low. Normally when diagnosing a crank / no-start condition, if it's caused by low fuel pressure, it will be way more than just five pounds too low, so there won't be confusion as to whether that is the cause.

A fast way to skip these tests is to open the fresh air supply tube and spray in some starting fluid. If the no-start is fuel-related, the engine will run for a few seconds on that fluid.

I still would check for spark. If that is missing, too much starting fluid will wash the oil film off the cylinder walls. That just adds one more variable, (low compression), to the problem.

At the very beginning of your video, you're looking at what is likely the fuel supply hose. You need a very inexpensive special tool to release those. They come in various designs, but all include a collar that goes around the metal pipe, then it is slid into the metal barrel. You'll likely need to push the rubber hose further onto the metal pipe while inserting that tool. The collar will lift up the barbs, or hooks, that hold the barrel onto the metal pipe. Once the hooks are retracted, just slide the hose off.

I'm not sure what I was seeing at the end of the video. It looks like an older Chrysler-style fuel filter with no rubber hose attached at the nipple. Was that for something else?
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Tuesday, February 21st, 2023 AT 5:07 PM

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