Hubs?

There were different engines available those two years. The only 2.4L used both years was the electric / gas version. For that one, they show the same part number for the left front half shaft.

When the inner CV joint pops out of the transmission, it is usually caused by a broken spring inside that housing. That spring is what keeps it in. The spring can be replaced separately, but the inner joint has to be disassembled to do that. It's a messy job due to the grease inside the joint.

How can you tell what? Which engine you have or if the same half shaft is used in both years?

I use the Rock Auto web site. You know the engine size in your car, so start by looking under that selection, then look at the choices listed for the 2011 model and see if the same part numbers are listed. If you find the same part numbers, for both years, you know they're the same. The problem is if you find only different part numbers, that doesn't necessarily mean they won't interchange. Some differences can be ignored, such as a tone ring for anti-lock brakes may be on one shaft, but it just isn't used on some applications. That shaft would have a different part number even though it's the same shaft with an additional unneeded part included.

Another example is in one year a half shaft may have been identified as the cause of a barely-noticeable vibration, but the manufacturer wanted to address that. They did that by adding a metal weight. That weight doesn't have to be there for either model year, but the fact it is on one shaft gets it a different part number.

You see the dilemma we run into all the time. Chrysler identifies parts that are the same but have a difference by adding an "AA', "AB", or "AC", for example, to identify a change has been made, but the underlying part number is the same. For other manufacturers, they just give the improved part a new number even though it's basically the same as the previous version with a different number.

Actually, this is my mistake for not reading correctly what you wrote. Toyota is one of the few manufacturers that still use a pressed-in front wheel bearing design, but the aftermarket suppliers have made preassembled assemblies available. There can be all kinds of variations with all kinds of different part numbers. Too many, in fact, to be concerned with those numbers. I do see the same number is listed as one of the choices for both years from one of the suppliers.

What is important with these bearings is the number and spacing of the wheel studs, the spacing of the mounting holes on the back side, and the number and size of the splines on the half shaft. If the new bearing assembly bolted on and the wheel fit, the bearing is the same.

You can do the same as I described before. On the Rock Auto site, click on "Toyota", then on the drop-down menu, click on "2009", then your model. The hub and bearing is listed under "Brake / Wheel hub", near the end of that list. Click on "Wheel Bearing & Hub", and you'll see the products listed from a variety of manufacturers and suppliers, each with their part numbers. I have to write some of the part numbers down because there's too many to remember.

Next, look up the same parts under the 2011 listings and see if they show the same part numbers from the same suppliers. I noticed one was the same for both years, so the year should not be an issue.

I also noticed the rear wheel bearings are different, but the only difference is the wheel speed sensor for the anti-lock brakes. The connector is at a different angle, but you can use the left bearing on the right side. It will get the job done by just rotating the plug a little. When you don't know that, you can only go by the different part numbers, and that would incorrectly tell you the parts can't be interchanged.

You should also be aware, in this case, Chrysler again, when a significant improvement is made in a part, especially one that they purchase from a different supplier, it gets an entirely new part number even though it replaces the old version perfectly, with no modifications. They'll sell the old version first until they're gone, then start selling the new version. Either one can be used, but you may only find one of those part numbers listed on some web sites.

Getting back to your comment about the half shaft dropping out of the transmission, that isn't related to the wheel bearing. That's due to the spring inside the inner cv joint. That joint has to collapse to change length as you turn and go up and down on bumpy roads. The spring also pushes the inner CV joint into the transmission to hold it there. Back in the '90s that replacement spring cost $3.00 and took about an hour to replace.

It's also not unheard of that inner joint pulling apart while the wheel bearing is removed. If it doesn't go back together properly, it's unlikely you'll get it to go back into the transmission. That will be obvious long before the wheel is installed and you try to go for a test drive.