Cranks fine, but no start at all?

TED CL

MEMBER
2018 FORD ESCAPE
1.5L
4 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
55,000 MILES

Cranks fine, but no start at all. I am assuming bad fuel pump (or devices that control pump), so I have checked fuse (20A; slot F56, up under glovebox) the only fuse or relay in the owner's manual referencing the fuel system (listed as "fuse pump supply") and it's not blown. I thought cars also have a fuel pump relay? --- But cannot find any reference to one for this car, in the owner's manual or with a really exhaustive search with Google and YouTube. Does the fuel control module (under the rear seat, passenger-side) perform this function instead? If it was a [typical] relay, I was going to simply swap with another 20A relay from fuse box to test it, but of course there's only one fuel control module so that trick won't work. Is there any way I can know for sure, with my voltmeter, if the fuel control module is bad, before I just gamble and maybe waste almost a hundred dollars unnecessarily? Thanks!

Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 12:28 PM

3 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
50,162 POSTS

Yes, the fuel pump control module controls the fuel pump in place of the fuel pump relay. You can use your voltameter to check for 12 volts at the wht/brn and the yel/grn wire at the fuel tank wiring harness which are the feed wires to the pump, if you get voltage there and the pump does not run the fuel pump is bad. Here is a guide to help you with the testing and the fuel pump and fuel pump module wiring diagrams.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.

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Friday, February 14th, 2025 AT 11:02 AM

TED CL

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Thanks Ken, for the reply! Unfortunately, I'd already ordered the fuel control driver module after posting my question, b/c I found on YouTube what I thought was definitive info on how to check to see if it's bad with my test light. And I got the results exactly like the YouTuber said: by putting a jump wire across #1 and #5, and another jump wire across #8 and #8, of the plug to the fuel control module, it should make the fuel pump run continuously. Which is clearly did b/c I could clearly hear it whirring when I did that. So I had high hopes as soon as I plugged in the new control module (from Ford dealer --- not some questionable auto parts store cheap one), she'd fire right up. And. Nothing --- exact same problem! Still cranks good and strong (for a long time, and many tries, b/c I didn't know if it maybe needs to prime first or something), but absolutely will not start. I'm assuming, b/c of that jumper-wire test, there's no need for me to take out the rear seat to test if the fuel pump itself is bad. So now I'm really flummoxed, and don't know what to turn to next. BTW, yes, there's about a 1/2 tank of gas in the car. :)

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Saturday, February 15th, 2025 AT 9:09 AM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
50,162 POSTS

It will prime instantly so I don't think that is the problem, we need to see if it is a fuel or spark issue, I would unplug the MAP and MAF sensor and try again because when this sensor goes bad it will not rigger the fuel pump. Please go over this video to help and i have included the MAP and MAF sensor location as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXLJbuAZ4CE

Check out the images (below). Please upload a video of the engine cranking over in your response of any problems so I can see if the engine is damaged or not.

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