How to bleed coolant?

What do you mean temperature probe? Car gets to middle needle on gauge quickly but I read online that these cars do that's how they are. But the fact that fan comes on high, and scanner shows it to go up and water boiling in reservoir tells me something is up. It's possible that there are gases in the reservoir and water isn't boiling. Not sure. But none of the hoses is super hard or anything and the lower hose is always cold. Not sure if any is related to the leak that was there under the intake. Car starts first time. No smoke at all. And no rough idle.

But what if you do a pressure test and it fails but it's not due to a head gasket but rather to a leak somewhere that is small and you don't see it?

So, coolant leak kit and head gasket chemical are the same liquid that I am going to buy?

Oh, I am aware. I have all these tools. But what am saying is do I use the chemical head gasket kit when am doing pressure test using the tools in the first picture and only for the pressure test?

If the thermostat is removed, why do you think the lower radiator hose is not getting hot? Strange, Even if the radiator is blocked, the bottom one should get hot since it is part of the water that is not circulating isn't it?

Non turbo. Yes, was thinking water pump. Yes, next move is to remove the belt and see. Then maybe remove the water pump.

Removed water pump, no issues there, hardly any water from the hoses except the one coming from radiator to water pump. If heater core is clogged up, could it cause stop of circulation to where the lower radiator hose stays cold? No heat from vents even though hose under the hood going to heater core tests hot.

Yes, that's what I thought. They are not stupid to make it where if a heater core is clogged up the whole system just overheats. Cannot remember how much coolant I put in first. When installing thermostat and coolant flange maybe 2 or more gallons. It's a frustrating issue. I removed the hose from the bottom radiator and water came out. Same on top one, ran water through radiator and its fine. No junk or plastic from anywhere. I don't understand how temperature can go up high if bottom one is not hot and too ones you can squeeze and feel that there is not so much pressure just regular pressure. But it gets scary with the fan kicking super high and reading on scanner says 235. It could be that the reading is wrong, cause like I said the temperature usually takes time to get to halfway of cluster needle but it gets there quickly not to mention the thermostat is out. Removed the upper heater core pipe hose under engine, which I think comes from radiator then foes to the aluminum pipe, the one that has the second bleeding screw, no junk of any type. Blew air into most of them and it came out fine. Is there a second intake under the top plenum? I am thinking maybe there is a clog where the coolant flange we replaced which goes into a second piece, cause the pieces were all broken and we had to spoon it out. That flange has 2 openings and sits next to the oil or water cooler under the intake. If the readings on the cluster and scanner are wrong. With the gun the temperatures are not high, maybe reach 130. And when I measured the radiator fina from in front of the car they were around 67f.

No transmission dipstick on these and no evidence of oil in coolant. Also far drives excellent no shifting issues.

Yes, I used a 1-gallon bottle to fill water twice, so removed it yes.