blower motor or resistor location?

Good morning,

I attached the procedure for you along with the pictures of the components that need to be removed.

Roy

Removal

NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.

Remove the BCM .
Refer to: Body Control Module (BCM) (419-10 Multifunction Electronic Modules) .
Remove the BCM retainers and BCM bracket.
Torque : 133 lb.in (15 Nm)
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NOTE: To aid in the installation of the torx screw, a mirror and a magnetic socket may be necessary.

Disconnect the air inlet door actuator electrical connector, and remove the front air inlet duct retainer.
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NOTE: To aid in the installation of the torx screw, a mirror and a magnetic socket may be necessary.

Install the ratchet, extension and socket as shown. Remove the upper air inlet duct retainer.
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NOTE: To aid in the installation of the torx screw, a mirror and a magnetic socket may be necessary.

Install the ratchet, extension and socket as shown. Remove the lower air inlet duct retainer and the air inlet duct.
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Release the retaining clip holding the blower motor while an assistant from the passenger side compartment reaches through the blower motor cage and turns the blower motor housing 45 degrees clockwise to release and remove the blower motor.
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The blower fan on my 2003 focus was only working on the highest setting, so i set out to replace the resistor. I plugged into the new unit and checked ......the lower speeds now worked but within seconds, the resistor unit was extremely hot./and it burned my fingers. I checked the the part number and it was correct...then tried another resistor and had the same results. Both of these resistors were new. Any ideas? Thanks

Make sure the blower motor isn't drawing too many amps. That is a common cause of the resister going bad in the first place. This guide can help us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/blower-fan-motor-works-on-high-speed-only

Please run down this guide and report back.

The fan on a 2001 Ford, Focus does not work at any speed. I know it's behind the glove compartment, but how do I take the fan out, so I can replace it? Do I flip the glove compartment down and remove the fan that way, or is it done from underneath the dash board? Do I have to dis-assemble part of the dash board?

If you don't know where it is how do you know it's bad?You need to see if the motor is getting power and ground if it is then you have a bad motor.If it isn't getting both power and ground then it's something else.But here is how you replace it.
REMOVAL




1. Remove the lower passenger side footwell trim.




2. Detach the floor level ventilation hose.




3. Remove the blower motor.

1. Disconnect the plug.
2. Remove the three screws.

Simple but good description. I've put the motor our, but how can I check by myself (with simple supplies) whether it is getting power and ground?
Furthermore, I have already checked the fuse for the air condition, but the fuse was alright (even after I changed the fuse) - did not work.

I have a 2001 Focus that has always has electrical problems. I've replaced the blower resistor twice, and finally the blower itself needs replaced, along with the resistor yet again.

2001 Ford Focus L4-2.0L SOHC VIN P REMOVAL

1.Remove the lower passenger side footwell trim.

2.Detach the floor level ventilation hose.

3.Remove the blower motor. *1.Disconnect the plug. *2.Remove the three screws. INSTALLATION

1.Remove the middle ventilation nozzle and open the glove compartment. NOTE: *Procedure if there is a concern over whistling noises from the heating system. *Set the air distribution switch to "Head area" and the temperature control switch to "MAX cooling"

2.Unclip the passenger side defrost nozzle air duct and lay it down over the open glove compartment cover. NOTE: Procedure if there is a concern over whistling noises from the heating system (continued).

3.Remove the two-part plastic joining tang on the heater housing. *Cut the joining tang at the top end using side cutters, break it off at the bottom and discard it. NOTE: *Procedure if there is a concern over whistling noises from the heating system (continued). *Do not allow any parts of the joining tang to pass behind the fascia crash padding. 4.Cut the sealing tape into a 50x50 mm square. NOTE: Procedure if there is a concern over whistling noises from the heating system (continued).

5.Feel for the gap in the heater housing, affix the sealing tape over the gap from the inside and press it firmly in place. *The sealing tape must not be applied higher than the position shown in the illustration. *1.Heater housing (shown in cross section) *2.Sealing tape NOTE: Apply the sealing tape in the position shown. WARNING: SHARP EDGES ON THE HEATER HOUSING. NOTE: Procedure if there is a concern over whistling noises from the heating system (continued). 6.Refit the components in reverse order.

how do you test the blower motor resistor in a 2001 ford focus se?

You don't really test the resister itself. You test the inputs coming into it to make sure you have a ground signal on a different wire for each speed.

if i'm not getting any air out of the motor would i be safe to replace the resistor and see if it fixes the problem or is there another recommended route

Sure you can

I started my car this morning (5 degrees outside) and went to turn on the heat and it would not blow out air. Someone told me to check the fuse in the power distributor box. I did and the Heater blower motor fuse was bad. I got a 30 amp fuse, replaced it and it blew as soon as I turned the heat on. I replaced it 2 more times w/ the same result. Is there anything I can do to fix this on my own? Thanks for your help.

disconnect the connector at the blower motr and check if your getting too wires that are shorted together or if any of the power wires are shorted to ground. if you have any of the above symptoms youll have to check the harness. if not check the blower motor to see if its internally grounded causing the fuse to blow.

anything else on that circuit besides the blower motor?

2000 Ford Focus When I turn on heater it run fine five mins. later heater still runs but no air. Is the heater blower going out ?

Hi,

Not sure about the question - it seems to conterdict itself? How is heater still running when the fan is not running?

Replace the Blower Motor Fan Switch.

I and many others have had the same problem!
It appears that Ford dropped the ball on yet another electrical part - the Fan Switch, it is made in Mexico, just like the rest of the junk in the early model Focus. They should be ashamed of themselves!

Hope it last for awhile. Just like the ignition key switch problem - also made in Mexico.

The contacts in the switch heat up and melt inside the switch or/and the center stud breaks - either way - it needs to be replace by removing the radio - then you will see the bolts to remove the plate holding the switches - the rest is self explainatory.

You may be able to find most of the parts for the Focus at Toco Bell? LOL

Hope this helps.

I have no heat. When I turn the switch on... NOTHING! No noise, no air (warm or cold)... NOTHING! Have replaced the Blower, blower resistor,and Dash switch. All Fuses have been checked. Seems to concur with water leaking from passenger side windshield. I'm stumped!

Tammey

It sounds like you could have a fuse that is blown here is a guide so you can help test and the fuse location in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

it was a 30amp fuse in the engine compartment! thanks for helping me!

Your welcome glad to hear you got it fixed.

my heater suddenly stopped blowing air. at first, it would still work only if you turn it on max (or to 4). than go on and off, now its not working at all.

Welcome to the forum, I'd have to check voltage and ground at the blower motor. Could be faulty blower motor. Also, check fuse 64--30 amp in under hood fuse box. Use a testlite, the circuit goes hot when you turn on the key. The lower speeds on the blower motor, are controled on the ground circuit, through a resistor block and blower switch. Max speed doesn't use a resistor.