How to replace power steering pump?

This is not a difficult repair and it all depends on your comfort level.

Here is a video on how to do it for your vehicle. Let us know what questions you have on this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXDysSOs07g

As for the amount it would cost to have it done. I attached the part and labor information. You take the labor hours and multiple that by the shops door rate per hour and you will get pretty close on the labor.

Let me know if you have questions on any of this. Thanks

There is what is called a variable assist actuator that is part of pump. He is probably going to replace the pump assembly. it is item 11 in the picture. This video will show you how to change the pump out so you can get to the valve with diagrams below.

https://youtu.be/EXDysSOs07g

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

I'd go with the reservoir for a number of reasons. First, from a professional's point of view, logic dictates the part is going to be more expensive since you're getting more stuff, but the time to complete the repair will be a lot less, and that will save the customer money. Second, there's a giant o-ring around the pump body, and there's always the chance, in spite of how great we are, that a mistake can be made and that o-ring doesn't seat properly, gets cut, etc, or the customer's old reservoir could be rusty and develop a pin hole leak very soon. Installing a pump with the reservoir already installed and leak-checked, with a warranty, insures a higher-quality repair

Since this is a pretty common pump, you're going to find one with a reservoir won't cost much more than one without it.

Check for a leaky oring at pump and hold line as you tighten it so doesn't' move check o rings at steering box as well. Flush system as well by removing return line to a gallon jug. It has about 15-30 psi then raise front end off of ground remove p/s cap disable ignition and crank in 10 sec intervals do that about 4 times if still hard to steer remove belt and see if pulley and shaft will come out of pump if it does you need a pump.

There is no vacuum assist on power steering unless you have a hydro boost for your brakes. Least from what you said it works now. Make sure to put power steering fluid in and not atf try to tighten large nut on back of can as that may be loose where the fitting is.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 1. Fill reservoir to correct level. Allow fluid to settle for no less than 2 minutes. Start engine and run for 30-60 seconds, then turn off. Check fluid level and add fluid (as necessary). Repeat procedure until fluid level in reservoir remains constant. 2. Raise and support vehicle with both front wheels off ground. Start engine. Turn wheels right and left, lightly contacting stops. Check fluid level and add fluid (as necessary). 3. Lower vehicle. Turn wheels right and left, slowly from lock to lock. Turn off engine. Check fluid level and add fluid (as necessary). If fluid is foamy, allow vehicle to sit for a few minutes and repeat bleeding procedure.
WORM BEARING PRELOAD 1. Remove steering gear from vehicle and mount in vise before performing preload adjustments. See STEERING GEAR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Remove worm bearing adjuster lock nut. See Fig. 1 . Using spanner wrench, turn adjuster plug clockwise until plug is seated in housing. Torque should be about 20 ft. lbs. (27 N.m). 2. Index mark housing even with one hole in adjuster plug. See Fig. 13 . Measure back 1/2" counterclockwise from first index mark. Mark housing with second index mark. Rotate adjuster plug back counterclockwise until hole in adjuster plug aligns with second index mark on housing. Install and tighten adjuster plug lock nut. Ensure adjuster plug remains in position. Fig. 13: Measuring Worm Bearing Preload Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. OVER-CENTER PRELOAD 1. With worm bearing preload adjusted, rotate stub shaft slowly from stop to stop while counting total number of turns. With stub shaft positioned at either stop, rotate stub shaft back 2/3 total number of turns counted. Stub shaft should be back to exact center position. Flat on stub shaft should be facing upward and parallel to side cover and master spline on pitman shaft should be aligned with adjuster screw. 2. Turn pitman shaft adjuster screw counterclockwise until extended, then back off one full turn. Place INCH-lb. torque wrench in vertical position on end of stub shaft. Measure gear over- center torque by rotating torque wrench attached to stub shaft in a 90-degree arc, 45 degrees on each side of center. See Fig. 14 . Record highest degree of arc on each side of center. Record highest reading. 3. Turn adjuster screw in until torque required to rotate stub shaft is 6-10 INCH lbs. (.6-1.1 N.m) greater than reading in step 2 . Continue adjustment until over-center reading is within specification. See LASH ADJUSTMENT PRELOAD table. Tighten adjuster screw lock nut when reading is obtained.
NOTE: Adjust worm bearing preload before performing over-center preload adjustment.

Or go to an alignment shop and pay to have the box adjusted on the vehicle...
Last resort, grab another rebuilt.

If you replaced the other box for wear out, did you flush the old fluid out of the pump? I would check to see if anything is loose on the box on the top at the adjusting screws, the sector shaft may be moving out of position.
Pressure testing will tell if the pump is the problem, or the rebuilt box.

Power Steering Pump Replacement (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)
Removal Procedure

Tools Required
J 25034-C Power Steering Pump Pulley Remover

Place a drain pan below the pump.
Remove the hoses.
Cap the hoses.
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical 4.3L or Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical 5.0L and 5.7L.

Remove the pulley.
Install the J 25034-C .
Be sure the pilot bolt bottoms in the pump shaft by turning the nut to the top of the pilot bolt.
Hold the pilot bolt.
Turn the nut counterclockwise.

Remove the front mounting bolts.
Remove the rear mounting nuts from the studs.
Remove the electrical connector from EVO actuator.
Remove the pump.
Installation Procedure

Tools Required
J 25033-C Power Steering Pump Pulley Installer

Install the pump.

Install the front mounting bolts.

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 50 NÂ m (37 lb ft).

Install the rear mounting nuts to the studs.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 50 NÂ m (37 lb ft).

Install the pulley.
Place the pulley on the end of the pump shaft.
Install the J 25033-C .
Be sure the pilot bolt bottoms in the pump shaft by turning the nut to the top of the pilot bolt.
Hold the pilot bolt.
Turn the nut clockwise.
Notice: Do not use an arbor press or internal damage to the pump will result.

Connect the pulley to the end of the power steering pump shaft. Install the pulley flush with 0.5 mm (0.020 in) play.
Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical 4.3L or Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical 5.0L and 5.7L.
Install the hoses.
Install the electrical connector to the EVO actuator.
Fill and bleed the system. Refer to Checking and Adding Power Steering Fluid and Bleeding the Power Steering System .
Inspect the hoses and the wiring for clearance.

POWER STEERING PUMP Removal 1. Place drain pan under steering pump assembly. Disconnect return and feed lines from steering pump. Cap ends of lines and steering pump fittings. 2. Unload power steering pump belt tensioner (if equipped). Remove power steering pump belt. Remove bracket mounting nuts, and remove bracket (if equipped). Using Pulley Remover (J- 25034-B), remove pulley from pump shaft. Remove pump mounting bolts and remove pump. Installation To install, reverse removal procedure. Use Pulley Installer (J-25033-B) to install pulley. Install pulley flush with end of pump shaft plus or minus.010" (.25 mm). Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Fill reservoir (if necessary). Bleed air from system.

If you started the line nut by hand two or three revolutions first, before using a wrench, the nut is not cross-threaded. If it was cross-threaded, you would have had to tug pretty hard on the wrench all the way.

The nuts are soft metal, but they usually go into an aluminum fitting. The threads in the fitting are the first to become chewed up. If you remove the nut and it had been cross-threaded, you all see long, thin, silver metal chips in the nut's threads. At that point you can try to reinstall the line, but the better alternative is to unscrew that fitting from the old pump, and use it in the new one.

There is an o-ring on each end of the pressure hose. Those are supposed to be replaced each time the hose is reinstalled. That o-ring is a better suspect than a cross-threaded fitting. Most replacement hoses and pumps come with the new o-rings when they are called for.