Brodland, I know exactly where you are at. I could list everything on your car that doesn't work due to your situation.
Step 1:LOCATE/TEST/REPLACE IF NECESSARY with a 20AMP fuse, FACTORY LOCATION FUSE NO. 42
(this fuse is located under the hood, toward the back of the ENGINE BAY [passenger side and to the back left side of the engine compartment], inside a black fuse box with a easily removable cover)
can also be located in the pictures/schematics posted by a previous responder
-I found that mine was fine-
Step 2:
Test/replace COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH
(that is the repair denotation of the entire turn signal switch)
-I found that mine was fine-
***IF YOU GET TO THIS PONT***
If you get to this point and have not found a resolution, then you and I have the same problem.
You have a SHORTED (connection to another signal-ground or hot-) or an OPEN (break in this connection) SIGNAL/CONNECTION)
You and I are going to be looking for an abnormality in the wiring/connection plugs
Our signal runs from the NO. 42 FUSE to the COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH > to a junction where our signal is split into an additional signal
From this junction, one signal runs to one tail light, and the other singnal runs to other multiple locations
If our problem gave us one tail light working while the rest of our original symptOms remained, the we would be looking for our OPEN between this junction and the problematic tail light and the rest of our components which have malfunctioned
HOWEVER, we are looking for, either an OPEN signal between our COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH and the junction where our signal splits first, or a SHORT between our COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH and and any of our seemingly malfuntioning components. Also, these components must have the signal introduced to it directly.
-this is where I am at currently investigating the same issue-
Good luck!
Wednesday, October 17th, 2012 AT 11:47 AM