1998 Honda Accord losing oil

Tiny
LUCKY4BABS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 86,000 MILES
Am losing oil, about 1+ quarts/500 miles. (Think it might have first been noticed 3 yrs ago/30k miles ago- oil almost empty at 3500 mile oil change- but I assumed then the last oil change was done inadequately.). NO smoke from tailpipe, no oil in tailpipe. NO oil in driveway, mechanic said bottom of car without evidence of oil leak-clean. Performance appears relatively unaffected at this point. Mechanic said I'm possibly losing oil into the engine. Was told performance would eventually diminish- "should look to replace engine"! PVC valve change? Worn piston rings? Valve seals not functioning properly? I'm a female and lost with how to proceed. Want the most logical, frugal way to approach diagnosing problem, and want to know est cost of possible problems it might be
Thursday, April 10th, 2008 AT 9:23 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
ERIC VENCIO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hi,
First, Im not a mechanic, but speaking purely from experience with 2 hondas (2001 civic) and 1999 accord) that has a similar problem. Ok, my mechanic suggested its the valve seals, they are worn out. Find out how much it will cost you to have this done. If you go to a dealership, you know how expensive it gets. Get referrals from friends for good friendly mechanics, who knows what they are doing! To replace the engine, it will cost you approx $400 plus the cost to have it installed. I believe all in, its about $1000--safe estimate. ( A Vtec engine would cost more)

If you don't want to spend now, ask your mechanic about putting in Synthetic oil, a thicker grade than your regular engine oil. He would know what I'm talking about, or you can read in google if this is the cheapest way to go. The idea is because its pure fossil oil, theres no additives that will burn easily. (Unlike is regular engine oil, with lots of additives) Some of it will still burn, but not much. The best one to use is Mobil 1 Synthetic oil, but you must know which to use (i.E, 10W 30 or 5W30?). Talk to your mechanic, or a second opinion from another.

Again, I'm no mechanic but just hoping I can help.
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Thursday, April 10th, 2008 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Your previous replier tried hard to help. The idea behind using thicker oil is that is will not breakdown and thin as easily as other oil and thus not be as prone to leaking into the cylinders. But I would recommend getting a leak down test performed to know more about where the leak is coming from. For instance, if the test shows a possible crack in the block or a bad oil ring on one or more pistons then you are looking at replacement or bebuilding of the engine. If it shows that the valve guides could be leaking oil, then a new head or repair of the head could help.

The cost of replacement will cost you considerably more that $1000. It should not be $2000 but something in between.

Good luck and find a mechanic that is familiar with this test, it is not that expensive.
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Thursday, April 10th, 2008 AT 1:47 PM

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