Car started jerking at stop light

JONNEKAC

MEMBER
2012 NISSAN ALTIMA
180,000 MILES

My car started jerking one night while at a red light. It was jerking so bad that I felt my body move as if the car was actually moving forward. So I decided not to drive it because it seemed as if it was going to cut off. I took it to Firestone to get a diagnostic test and it came back that I needed a fuel cleaning. So I bought fuel cleaner from AutoZone and put it in the gas tank but that didn’t stop the jerking. So about a week and a half after letting the car just sit, I had to drive it to work one day. On the way from work the car started making a very loud noise and cut off as I started driving. I cranked it back up and tried to go a little further and notice that the speedometer was on 0 and I couldn’t go normal speed so I pulled to the side of the rode. The car completely cut off after a few minutes of pulling over. The lights were still on and the radio would come on but that all eventually stopped working also. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem?

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,885 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Was the check engine light or any other warning light on when you were driving the vehicle and experiencing the problems? If so, you really should scan the computer to determine what trouble codes are stored. Here is a quick video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will lend or rent one to you.

The idea that the speedometer wasn't working sounds related to what is called an output speed sensor. That will cause transmission shift problems which could be related to the jerking you experienced.

However, that won't ruin the battery. What I want you to start with is this. Let's make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Take a look through this link first:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Next, if the battery terminals are clean and tight and corrosion isn't an issue, we need to then check the battery itself. And yes, a weak battery or low electrical current to the vehicle's computers can cause this type of problem. If, however, the battery is totally dead, you will need to recharge it. I am going to provide several links. They show how to check a battery, charge a battery, and how to use general tools for testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

If the battery is dead, here is a link that shows how to charge a battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

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Now, if the battery checks good and you can get the car to start again, confirm the alternator is working and recharging the battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

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Lets start with these tests. Once we confirm there is adequate power to the components, we can move on. Also, if there is any way you could get your hands on a scanner to check for diagnostic trouble codes, it would be extremely helpful.

Please feel free to ask questions, or if you need help, let me know.

Take care,
Joe