Codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402 and P2419

Have you replaced any parts since last month's post? Some of your live data looks strange. On the first recording at around 4:19 the engine RPM goes to around 480 and most sensors are reading negative. And your MPG is up to 20, so what's changed? No codes stored.

But you didn't replace the Evap Canister assembly? I ran some of your data numbers through the Volumetric Efficiency calculator and they came up somewhat low. Does it feel somewhat sluggish? It might be something you don't notice since you have been driving it like this for so long.

Have you replaced the Canister assembly yet? These are your 4 possibilities for the 4 codes youre getting. The only thing left you can do is check the wiring from the ecm all the way to the Canister by measuring with a multimeter from the ecm connector to the Canister connector to see if theres any open circuits or high resistance. The rest of the testing needs to be done with a high end scan tool that will tell the ecm to run through the entire check procedure. Which takes 18minutes for the self test to run.
Below is the oem diagram from Toyota for the Evap Canister assembly. The green markers are where a voltage reading would be, the yellow are Ground marks and the Blue is a Signal from the canister pressure sensor. But this system only turns on when certain conditions are met and there is no way for you to know when it will run a self test and or run the evap system.

Why does your live data keep dropping on the RPM to 480 quite a bit? Are you having some type of stalling issue? The Volumetric Efficiency test I ran with the numbers from your live data suggests the Catalytic Converter may not be in good shape. 51% and 60% are not good numbers, this is because of the positive fuel trim numbers reaching over 10%. Along with all the codes you're getting, the fact that you were smelling gas inside the vehicle means you either have a gas leak somewhere or you have cylinders misfiring and making this whole situation worse. If the Catalytic Converter cannot allow 100% of the exhaust to escape the engine, it cannot take in 100% fresh air, and the result is misfiring cylinders. Misfires allow more unburned fuel down the exhaust, this causes the Converter to overheat, and the cycle continues. And we really don't know what action the ECM takes when there are four codes for the Evap system, we don't know if it disables the system or runs in some default strategy.
The vehicles running condition is only going to get worse, until it doesn't start one day. You've had the same codes for months now.

I understand what you are saying, I could tell from the video you were in a different country. Its just that there is no trick when it comes to a failed component. The issue really is where the Evap assembly is located. Being under the vehicle like it is. Its reading historic codes at this point, so if the ecm is not seeing the issue any longer, the codes will disappear after a number of key starts. Are you able to graph any of the data pids with that scan tool app? I noticed in your last live data video that the oxygen sensor Bank 2 sensor 1 voltage was not responding much, take a look and see what the other Oxygen sensors voltage is doing. The readiness monitors for the oxygen sensors has not passed or the oxygen sensors heater has not passed either. Knowing the conditions of the roads there now, corroded connectors would be a major concern. Check all of the oxygen sensor connectors under the vehicle. The Oxygen sensor heater circuits should have no problem passing the readiness monitors. If the heaters are not working the oxygen sensors will not function and will cause an overly rich or lean condition. Im assuming you do not have emissions inspections in your country? If you dont, you can just gut out the Catalytic Converter if it as melted down due to fuel issues.
In some of your videos the fuel trim numbers were going over Positive 10%. That means the engine computer was adding 10% to the air fuel mixture and this can cause the Catalytic Converter to over heat and melt the substrate. If you unbolt the front of the Converter and look in and see that it is melted down partially. Its restricting the exhaust causing your lack of power. The 1st picture is a basically good looking converter looking at it at the inlet. The 2nd picture is a Converter that has melted down and is now clogging up the exhaust. If you have no emissions regulations where you live and find that your Catalytic Converter looks like the 2nd picture, break up the substrate and take it out. This is most likely what is causing the results on the VE test I showed you, where is was only at 50 to 60% test results. Thats the engines ability to breath, to take in air and to allow exhaust out. Inspect the oxygen sensor wiring too. There will be 2 wires that are the same color on the oxygen sensor connector, those are the heater circuit wires. The feed 12 volts to the oxygen sensor to heat them up.
These are some things you can considering the conditions of the roads there. Im sorry I cant be more help, its difficult to trick a computer if there is a failed component. But checking the Converter will atleast tell you if thats causing the lack of power youre experiencing.