headlight fuse location

There is a 50-amp maxi-fuse, but it also protects the tail lights/running lights. If the tail lights work, that fuse is okay. Because power windows, wipers, and head lights are considered safety systems, they are protected by auto-resetting circuit breakers. If there is an intermittent short, a blown fuse will leave you unable to see. With an auto-resetting circuit breaker, there is at least a chance it will reset in time to resume operation.


This guide will help you see where you are losing power and which fuses run the headlight in the headlight wiring diagrams below so you can see how the system works as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester


The circuit breaker for head lights is built into the head light switch. It is not uncommon for the contacts in the circuit breaker to become arced and fail to make contact, but it is just as common for two terminals in the connector to become overheated. You will need to inspect the connector to see if part of it is melted. If you find that, I will describe how to repair it. Depending on which terminal is overheated, you may not have the flash-to-pass function either.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

while driving..electrical smell...then headlights dim/bright/dim...(pulsing)...now no headlights at all! Truck still runs...not sure how long at this point

Have you had the alternator tested? Most parts stores will do it for free. Do that and let me know what you find.

My headlights work for the most part. Every so often they turn on and off, and sometimes they will just shut off completely. What can I do to fix this?. All the fuses are good.

Do you have a voltmeter or test light?
Here is a helpful article for you to take a look at.
www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Mt laptop battery is dead. I'll be back tomorrow.

Yes i do what all do i test

I think the head light switch is the easiest to get to. Pull it out, then check for voltage on the red wire. If it is not there, we will have to go back to the fuse box. If it is there, check for 12 volts on the light green wire when the switch is turned on to the headlight position. To be of value, the testing has to be done when the problem is occurring. When it is intermittent like this, I fashion a test light or I use a clip lead to keep the voltmeter attached to the terminal, then I can quickly look at the light or meter when the problem happens again.

My suspicion is you are going to find the voltage goes away on only the light green wire. That is because there is an auto-resetting circuit breaker inside the switch assembly. Those trip based on temperature, and pitted contacts on the breaker cause heat to build up. Those circuit breakers cause more problems than they prevent. An additional clue is when that circuit breaker trips, the tail lights / running lights will still work because they're on a different circuit.

The headlights on my 95 dakota will not come on. The tail, parking interior dash etc all work. The switch was just replaced 2 weeks ago. I checked all fuses inside and under the hood all are fine. Additionally I have had to replace both headlamps in the last few weeks Drivers side 3 weeks ago passenger 1 week ago

Hi:
Did you check for power in and out of the switch? Also, have you checked for power to the headlamp plugs in the rear of the lights? If no, do so using a test light. Let me know what you find.

Also, have you had any trouble with the high / low beam switch?

Joe