Intermittent hard starting when cold

UPSTATENYBOB

MEMBER
1993 CHRYSLER NEW YORKER
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
68,000 MILES

Background: I inherited this car after my mother passed away a few years ago. She had always babied it; I have continued that with my mechanic. I had fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter [original!], And "canister" replaced a few months ago.
Problem: The car can sit for four or five days between uses, then be used three or four days in a row. Over the past week I've noticed that when engine is cold, the engine cranks and cranks before starting. (Warm engine start is almost immediate.) I don't believe its weather-related: mostly sunny summery days here now.
Additional data:
*Since the car can sit for days without use, I always use 93 octane gas.
*Damp/wet weather doesn't seem to have an effect.
*Still occurs when cold starting on second, third day of use in a row.
*Charging system and battery have been checked; all is good. Battery gauge (full set of dash gauges!) Shows excellent charging.
*Don't know when/if spark plugs were replaced, given mileage, but I assume my mother's mechanic replaced them at 50,000.

5 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,885 POSTS

Welcome to 2CarPros.

I want you to try something for me. When you first start it and would normally experience the delay in starting, do the following:

1) From the off position, turn the key to the run position (engine off/don't engage starter) and count to 5.

2) Turn the key to the off position and repeat step one, three more times. On the fourth time, see if it starts quickly.

If it does, you have what is called fuel pressure drop off. Basically, the system loses its prime and takes a little longer to re-pressurize the system. You could check it by doing a fuel pressure test and drop off test. Here is a link that explains how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the manufacturer's specs for pressure.

Fuel Pressure* .................... 331 ± 14 kPa (48 ± 2 psi)

That pressure is with the key on and engine off. Once you turn the key to the off position, pay attention to how quickly the pressure drops. Let me know the results. Also, the key cycling technique I listed above will tell me basically the same thing, so it's up to you how you want to do it.

Note: The pressures listed are for a 3.3L V6 engine. That is the only engine offered in this vehicle. If something is different, let me know.

Let me know the results or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Thursday, July 4th, 2019 AT 9:01 PM

UPSTATENYBOB

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Well, I *think* I've solved the problem. There was only one time I was able to attempt fault isolation using your method. And, it did not work, the engine still churned a while before catching, despite following your instructions. Then my wife asked me just when had this problem started? I told her the approximate time, and she said, "Isn't that right after you got gas at that station near ***? It's closed now, you know." (God bless her, she's smarter than I am.) So, I filled up the tank at a station that sells premium with no ethanol added. 150 miles since then. And no sign of a recurrence. Thanks for your idea though!

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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 2:08 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,885 POSTS

Welcome back:

That's good news. Your welcome for the idea even though it wasn't the issue. I will keep my fingers crossed that it continues running well for you.

Please feel free to come back anytime.

Take care,
Joe

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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 7:20 PM

UPSTATENYBOB