Spark plug replacement?

Tiny
THEWOOLIF
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 15,500 MILES
The middle plug on left side of engine is right behind the steering column. How do you get at it to change it?
Tuesday, October 5th, 2010 AT 8:38 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
  • 951 POSTS
Snapon, matco, or mac tools sell a special socket for that plug.... shouldnt need it though, just use a couple swivels, and go through the wheel well... thats how i always got them out....

THis guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, October 5th, 2010 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
SMOSES99
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 98,500 MILES
I just changed the plugs and wires and I think I may have crossesd some wires can you tell me how to do this properly? The engine is kind of "chuggy" now and the service engine soon light is now on.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
VERY easy to do.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_43_2.jpg



Check it against this diagram.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISJ1476
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 119,300 MILES
I have been advised that my #5 spark plug and wire needs to be changed. Was told that is the reason my car has been running hard while stopped (it shudders a lot). I wanted to save some cash and do it myself. Was told it's very easy to change the plugs and wires. Just was wondering if it's one of those things that I have to change all of them at the same time? Can I get one spark plug and wire and fix the problem with the one or should I buy all new plugs and change them all out at the same time? I was also wondering what was the difference in using a Platinum, Iridium or Copper spark plug. Besides the price. Which one is better to use?
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SWILLIAMS
  • MECHANIC
  • 597 POSTS
Replace all the wires and plugs at the same time. I would also change out the cap and rotor.

Plug wise you will want to use the factory Delco 41993 platinum.

However I would make SURE that the plug/wire is the problem. A plugged injector can cause the same problem.

Don't even bother with others. I tried the Bosch "equivalent" plug and it was throwing missfire codes and running rough. Put the original plugs back in and it smoothed out. Replaced them with a set of NEW Delcos and it stayed smooth. Thinking that I must have done something wrong at the time I went and got a set of Champions. Put them in and went back to misfires. Tried the Bosch again with the same misfire showing up. LOTs of folks say that cannot happen but I have seen many GMs that were showing misfire codes and problems. Pulled the plugs and put Delcos in and the codes went away. Goofy but I have not been the only one who has seen it either.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THOMAS BALDWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1995 GMC JIMMY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 198,200 MILES
I have changed the alternator, battery, motor, distributor, distributor cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, spark plug wires, spark plugs, radiator, thermostat, fan belt. The jimmy surges while running. Lately when the engine has warmed up and when I turn it off, it will not restart, but if I take one of the spark plug wires off, it will start. Before it died and left me stranded on the road I had it towed to a garage and the mechanic can not seem to get to the bottom of the problem. No dash lights come on to inform me of any problem. What should I try next? The distributor came with a module, and now I think it is the computer but the mechanic says it does not show any codes to chech, he state
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check two things, if you have a crank sensor-it's in the timing cover, check the ohms as they can be to high and cause the problem. Then get some choke cleaner and clean tthe throttle plate on both sides along with the oblong hole on it. It will be hard to start after doing this, but it gets oily and causes some of the problems you are experiencing.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THOMAS BALDWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I think we have found the problem. We replaced the pigtail going to the fuel injector. It was loose on the two prongs sticking up. Now it seems to be hitting on all cylinders but service eng. Soon comes on and does not want to down shift when it gets hot, and idles rough. Could the next problem be in the temperature sensor or the oxygen sensor? All the fuze checked out ok.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Sensor like 02 and coolant normally don't do that, but if your service engine light is on have it scanned and see what is setting the code, that could be your problem. YOu have to eliminate codes first for other problems. The downshifting may be a trans problem or a bad connection as well. You will need a pro model or a trans guy to look at the downshifting problem. But get the service engine light out first.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THOMAS BALDWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Most of the surging and not shifting was solved with a change of the computer and now it shifts good and runs fairly well with a slight movement of the engine while idleing. No dash lights are on to indicate trouble though. Could a computer diagnosis show any thing else with on truble light?
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
For your shifting problem take ti to a trans pro and let him see if he can see anyhting going on. He migh thave to try to freeze frame to find the problem. But it can be a connection on the trans as well.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CROD32
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 GMC JIMMY
1995 GMC Jimmy 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i just changed my spark plugs and wires, now my car doesnt have much speed to go up hills.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be the wrong heat range sparkplugs or the resistances of the wires to include loose connection
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GLE_3
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 GMC JIMMY
1994 GMC Jimmy 183,000 miles 4.3 Vortec

I have been trying to trace a fuel issue and have spent a fair share of money and wrench time so any help would be apprieciated. Service light is indicating engine is running rich. It doesn't accelerate very well and misses(like one cylinders isn't firing 100 percent) when sitting at stop lights. I bought and replaced these items in the following order.

About 20,000 miles ago: Spark plugs, Spark plug wires, Distributor and cap

About 10,000 miles ago: Entire spider CPI injector(has regulator on it), New fuel feed from the outside of the upper plentum into the injector, new fuel filter

Just last week: New fuel pump and sending unit.

I am still getting engine is running rich codes and it still accelerates poorly. Please help!
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
At 20K miles the sparkplugs gap wears at.001 per 1K miles, right now its at.020 away from the original specs. The wider the gap its harder to fire.

When you install the new fuel pump did you check the actual fuel pressure.

About 10,000 miles ago: Entire spider CPI injector(has regulator on it), New fuel feed from the outside of the upper plentum into the injector, new fuel filter. Who replace this?

Try checking and viewing the live data on the coolant and oxygen sensor/throttle position sensor at closed and WOT.

Also look for a vacuum leak and inspect the EGR- the computer will dump fuel to it.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 12:53 PM (Merged)

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